Type: | Trad |
FA: | Randy Joseph and Tim Hanson (I believe), early 1980s |
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Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a one pitch route that begins from the top of the flake that marks the start of Pear Buttress. It can thus be used as a start to Loose Ends, Pear Buttress, or Visual Aids. You can start the pitch by leading the first half of Pear Buttress and then traversing left on the ledge with blocks that marks the top of the flake, although this can cause rope-drag and also increases the possibility of ledge-fall. Perhaps more common is to start from a belay platform just down and left of the flake, or you can boulder up onto the flake and establish your belayer there. You can access this platform by scrambling down from the staging area at the base of Howling at the Wind, Fat City Crack, and Toot (a good option if planning to rappel), or by scrambling up and around from the base of Pear Buttress.
The route begins from the middle of the flake and follows two very thin but good cracks on perfect rock up to the sloping ledge of the three above mentioned routes. Small nuts work really well; small cams are bomber at the crux but plug the crucial locks. I recommend continuing with Visual Aids and Cheap Date for a challenging route with 3 pitches of exquisite, mid-5.10 finger cracks on perfect rock--an unheralded link-up that is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge. However, if you don't want to continue, you can lead up either Loose Ends or Pear Buttress to the fixed rappel anchor at the top of P2 of Pear Buttress. From here, you can rappel west (NOT down the route) with a single 60-meter rope down to the base of the Howling at the Wind Dihedral, in the vicinity of the route Toot.
The route begins from the middle of the flake and follows two very thin but good cracks on perfect rock up to the sloping ledge of the three above mentioned routes. Small nuts work really well; small cams are bomber at the crux but plug the crucial locks. I recommend continuing with Visual Aids and Cheap Date for a challenging route with 3 pitches of exquisite, mid-5.10 finger cracks on perfect rock--an unheralded link-up that is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge. However, if you don't want to continue, you can lead up either Loose Ends or Pear Buttress to the fixed rappel anchor at the top of P2 of Pear Buttress. From here, you can rappel west (NOT down the route) with a single 60-meter rope down to the base of the Howling at the Wind Dihedral, in the vicinity of the route Toot.
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