Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994
Page Views: 602 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The climb involves near-vertical face climbing along the right side of a striking seam using thin edges and the occasional opening in the seam. Balancy moves lead up to the last pin where intricate footwork and smooth weight transitions gain a small stance at a bolt. The final moves past the bolt involve a lieback to a highstep and a thumb mantle to reach the finishing jugs. Two bolt anchor with hangers only, but an easy downclimb exists to the climber's right.

A very unique and enjoyable climb that favors good technique over raw power. Great rock and a pleasant variety of moves make this a climb to seek out if nearby. Three stars out of five.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.

Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.

Protection Suggest change

3 fixed pins, bolt (5/16"), 2 bolt anchor (3/8")

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