Thin Slice 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Tenney |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Jun 9, 2003 |
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Ben on Thin Slice
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Description Thin Slice is one of the best 5.10a trad climbs at the City. It is found on the north east side of Parking Lot rock, just east of Cario (5.11a).
The climb starts in a right facing dihedral, and follows a juggy crack with good gear. A small bulge is pulled and the crux finger crack is just above. Figure out the tricky moves along a finger crack and you will arrive at a ledge with 2 bolts. An extra finger sized cam (#1 friend) will be helpful in the upper finger crack.
Protection Gear to 2 inches, extra finger sized cams
Down low on the route.
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Fun steep climbing leads to a thin crack on the up...
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Wall shot of the route
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| Another great line. Don't miss this one. I felt a tad harder than Bloody Fingers, and a lot less secure. I remember thinking to myself as I looked up at it, "This doesn't look all that great". Man, was I wrong. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 28, 2006
| I actually thought this one was kinda easy for the grade. Easier than Bloody Fingers and WAAAAY easier than Double Cracks. Outstanding, intimidating climb. |
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 22, 2007
rating: 5.10-
| great moves. climbs like a sport climb. 10- |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007
| So good! It climbs like a sport climb until the finger jams in the upper crack... |
By Iain Morris
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| What a sweet crack up high. I think the grade is right on. It is a safer lead than Bloody Fingers (seen some crazy liebacks on the start to BF), but not more or less hard. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| Looking up from the base I opt out of leading this route as it looks, well, "thin". I'm not a huge fan of using only small gear. What a mistake! The route is for ladies fingers and a great size. sm-med nuts, TCU's to 2" cams. Watch for chopped ropes in the cracks. Chain anchors.
I won't make the same mistake next time.
Susan |
By rpc
Mar 25, 2008
| I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good. |
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| This felt more sustained to me than Bloody Fingers, but still great fun. The bottom part does climb like a sport climb. The whole route took great gear. A 60M rope doesn't quite reach down to the nice ledge for the TR. |
By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| A fantastic line that shouldn’t be missed. I felt it was on par with other 10a’s in the area in terms of difficulty. Aesthetically speaking the route is inspiring. |
By Alec
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Holy crap this thing is fun. Gear-protected overhanging jugs to a splitter finger crack. Great feet the whole way. Very photogenic with great gear the whole way -- do it! |
By The Real Mark Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| Absolutely great climbing, wow!! I felt it was a little soft for the grade in the area. |
By CHopwood
Jun 16, 2012
| I would definitely recommend you rappel this route. You can see the remnants of more than one cut rope jammed in the crack at the top. Hook your rope over a large bump on the way down and rap just right of the crack. You can still clean all of your gear. I also needed a much smaller rack. The largest piece of gear I used was a .5 C4 and even those were too large for much of the finger crack. Plenty of great rests to stop and plan your next moves though. Awesome route!! |
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