Thin Slice of Time
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Just right of Amphitheater Overhang, are some warped layers of rock. Climb these crossing over to the cracks above Big in Japan's anchors. The lower portions are good with some weird moves involved, and the upper crack/face is nice with sharp edges and good hands. However, the middle section is loose, well the entire climb has looseness to it, but the middle section gets dangerous. As we climbed it we avoided the initial traverse right just above the anchors due to rotten rock everywhere. A flake the size of a laptop came off in my hands. If it cleaned up, which I don't see, it would vastly improve.
Medium to small gear seemed to work the best, with some runners. Cam's almost seemed imperative.
Apr 8, 2007
If it cleaned up it would dissappear. This thing scares me.
By John Steiger
Sep 1, 2008
Full value trad climbing, particularly if you traverse right as soon as possible to gain the face above Big In Japan (rather than staying in the loose stuff and later stepping right to the finishing cracks). Ruckmans' guide says to take micronuts and small TCUs; I only needed one of each in the section immediately above Big in Japan. An optional descent is to rap of Encore to the left.