Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct  5.7+

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Art Gran, John Wharton, Bob Chambers, 1956. FA (Direct P3): Art Gran, 1958. FFA (Direct P3): John Turner Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Feb 28, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike Amato starting the exciting traverse on the t...

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The third pitch direct variation of this mind-boggling route will have you wondering about Gunks ratings: how can an exposed, overhanging, pumpy hand traverse, with so-so hands and poor feet, only be rated 5.7+? It will feel like 5.9 to the first-time visitor, but the adrenaline rush and pump factor will leave you thrilled when you finish.

To approach, use the new trail for Middle Earth. If you get to the Arrow access trail, at an open area by white rocks, you've gone too far.

At the cliff, head right and look for a smooth face with 3 bolts; this is the route Sente. Thin Slabs starts in a crack 5' right of Sente; Thin Slabs Direct starts in a right-angling crack 10' farther right.

P1 (Direct): Climb the right-angling thin crack with a bouldery start. After the crack peters out, continue up and left towards a big tree with rap slings. 5.7+, 100'.

P1 (original): Climb the crack on the left, up a face past a bolt, and continue up to the big tree. 5.6R, 90'.

P2: Climb an overhang on the right, continue to a ledge, and climb a left-facing corner to another tree with rap slings. 5.5, 60'.

For the Direct finish, move the belay to a tree about 10' to the right, where you'll be in a good spot for the wild third pitch.

P3 (Direct): Climb up a left-facing corner toward the huge roof. Take a deep breath and commit to the exposed, pumpy traverse to the right. Several old pins mark the way - it's a good idea to back them up, even though it's pumpy. Exit right onto the arete (crux), and breathe a sigh of relief. Gather your marbles, and continue up the face to a tree with rap slings. "5.7+" (Gunks sandbag rating), 70'.

P3 (original): If you're not up for the excitement of the Direct finish, you can climb a chimney in a large left-facing corner on the left, and traverse right to the rap tree. 5.5, 60'.

Descent: 3 rappels from trees with slings and rings with one 60m rope.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Bring some small wired nuts for the first pitch and some Screamers for the old pins on the third pitch.

Photos of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct Slideshow

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Mike Amato looking for footholds on the exposed th...	Nic Fries finishing the traverse.	Nic with the traverse behind.
Following Thin Slabs Direct	Following Thin Slabs Direct	Craziest 5.7+ traverse ever!
tr on the original start	Thin Sandbangs Direct	Thin Sandbangs Direct
Thin Sandbangs Direct