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Thin Fingers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Boving
Page Views: 7,067
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Adam Greenstreet on Thin Fingers 5.11a



Description 

This great long pitch begins with easier climbing and a smeary corner. You can get a full-on no-hands rest at the first set of anchors, but don't stop there, the best is yet to come. Go straight up the seam (crux) to a good hand crack and more superb liebacking. Most people skip the crux by going right at the first set of anchors, making it not as good at about 5.10. Warning, a 70 meter rope is needed to reach the ground on this one.

Location 

Far right side of the lower wall, the splitter upper crack is easily seen from below.

Protection 

Fixed clips are at the anchor.


Photos of Thin Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
At the rest before the crux move.
At the rest before the crux move.
Thin Fingers
Thin Fingers

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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2006

This is a great climb that requires a nice variety of techniques. If I recall, you might want to bring some small gear for the crux moving up off the first belay.
By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2006

A cool variation called Big Toes (5.11) traverses right at the upper roof to another thin crack about 10 feet to the right of the regular route. Rejoin thin fingers about 10 feet below the anchor.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This one really should be called "thin hands". The splitter upper crack is primarily #1 camalots. I'd bring at least three #1 camalots next time - I only had two and had to back clean.

A good rack would be doubles thin to #2 camalots, with some extra #1 and #0.75 camalots. Small nuts are useful as well.

The 11a crux is hard and balancy. I cheated. I'm blaming the ... err.. humidity. The upper crack is sweetness and worth the cheat.

70m gets you down perfectly.
By Rafe
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Triples of red and green camalots is a little excessive for this route.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jul 19, 2011

Agreed that triples red/green is excessive, but some like excess. With some advanced TRing skills, you can make a 60 work utilizing the ledge system climber's right of of the route about 10 feet up to belay from and/or walk down off. It's funky but functional and mostly safe.
By Andrew Shannahan
From: Lynnwood, WA
Oct 18, 2012

SPOILER ALERT

Reachy move off the first ledge gets you a good finger lock. You can put a small nut in the thin seam off the second ledge for a little extra protection. I start the slab crux with my right hand on a couple of low right side pulls to the right of the slab crux, my left on the good foothold on the far right of the slab, and my left hand working up the thin seam on the slab. Get a piece in right above the slab and another one once you've got your hands on the flake off the slab, before you turn it into hand jams. Get a #2(?) in half way up the hand jams. Rest at the roof, put in pro at the roof or reach up left. Lieback the next short flake entirely, putting a #.75 off the first good stance, then gun for the jugs. Easy climbing up and right from there.
By Thad Arnold
From: Oregon
May 23, 2013

Beta Alert

When you climb this route, if you're trying to do the crux off the first anchor the 5.11 way, I would vote for not focusing too much on what the description says about skipping the crux by going out right for a 5.10 variation because when I climbed the route I found (after standing on the ledge for a long time) that the most natural way for me to get established on the first good foothold on the 5.11 crux was actually to traverse into it from the right.

The 5.10 option is great to know about, but I think there's something useful over there for the 5.11 version as well, so don't put your blinders on like I did.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My first 11 crack and a good one at that. Gobbles up gear nicely. Just a beauty of a line...