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Thin and Crispy 
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Total Eclipse 

Thin and Crispy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross, BJ Sbarra, and Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter and Spring
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Lynn S on Nov 10, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Just after pulling over the roof.

Description 

Starts just right of Girls With Guns (10d). Climb past pockets to a shallow, left-facing flake and up to a no hands stance below a small roof.

Pulling the roof is the crux, fortunately there are nice, albeit sharp and crimpy, holds above the roof. Some balancy stemming gets you to the chain anchor.


Location 

This starts about down and left (100 feet) of Tooth or Consequences. This is the center route of three routes on this face. Girls With Guns, the left route, is spectacular for the area.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchor with steel lowering biners.



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By Lynn S
Mar 23, 2011

You can link this with the upper section of Girls With Guns. Clip the Thin and Crispy anchor, then move up and left to a rest and then fire up the last 20 feet of Girls. You will need 3 additional draws, I believe.

By Fitz
From: Carbondale, CO
Jan 19, 2014

Great route if you continue past the chains to the top of Girls...probably 10c/d.