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Koala Rock
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Thin Air 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,778
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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View from the P1 anchors.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great 5.10 multi pitch!
1st pitch requires gear and the rest is bolted. Where the trail meets the crag you will be at the base of the climb.

Pitch 1:
Follow thin crack up to a bulge. Pull the bulge and follow the crack/face above to a bolted anchor. (5.9 120 ft.)

Pitch 2: Crack through some bulges on excellent rock up and right to another bolted anchor. (5.10a 60 ft.)

Pitch 3: Finesse a step bulge just above the anchor then wander up and right to another bulge. Above the last bulge climb huge holds to a third set of anchors. (5.10a 100 ft.)

Descent:
Rap twice with a single 60m rope to the top of pitch 1. From the anchor at the top of pitch one rap into the gully on the East side of the formation.


Protection 

TCUs cams to 3" and draws for upper two pitches.



Photos of Thin Air Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 1
pitch 1
the route
BETA PHOTO: the route
Bolted variation start to Thin Air (5.10a) on Koala Rock, Smith Rocks - Oregon
BETA PHOTO: Bolted variation start to Thin Air (5.10a) on Koal...
Comments on Thin Air Add Comment
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2007

You can do the bolted 5.9 to the right as the first pitch of this climb if you don't have any gear. Really a lot of fun. At the end (anchors) of the 5.9, you have to keep climbing to the anchors of the 5.10 first pitch of this climb which are up and around some blocks. Just keep going until you see them, it's not hard.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

For the last pitch, clip the bolt off the belay and then head right and then up..... I tried for a while to go straight up until I realized the error of my ways.

By Josh Lagalo
From: Bend, OR
Sep 14, 2010

I would really discourage folks from rapping this route. If others are on route(pretty popular route IMO) then they will be tossing ropes and rapping right on top of other parties. They should top out and then use the single rappel off the backside, same as Round River descent.

Also more than once i've seen parties get the rope stuck pulling off the 3rd bolted belay. It's not really set up for a rappel.

JL

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2010

On that note, if you decide to walk off, I think the scree surfing around the backside (south side) of the rock is a bit easier than the north. That was how it felt to me, anyway, although it probably didn't help that when I went down the north side I was barefoot.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 9, 2013

To add to the decent options... I agree that rapping the route could be a little tough on the rope and recommend other alternatives. A bit of 3rd and 4th class scrambling gets you to the backside rappel or walk off. The walk off is an EASY 8 foot 3rd class down climb to a ledge and then a walk down 3rd class dihedral formation to put you right next to "The Knob 10a"

After that the scree slope sucks no matter what.

Finally, the 5.8 trad pitch is infinitely better in my opinion than the one move wonder bolted route to the right. Bring a single rack for comfortable leaders (who can use nuts) and you'll have a blast.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

We climbed the route with another party, joined ropes and made one double rope rappel to the south gully.