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Great 5.10 multi pitch!
1st pitch requires gear and the rest is bolted. Where the trail meets the crag you will be at the base of the climb.
Follow thin crack up to a bulge. Pull the bulge and follow the crack/face above to a bolted anchor. (5.9 120 ft.)
Pitch 2: Crack through some bulges on excellent rock up and right to another bolted anchor. (5.10a 60 ft.)
Pitch 3: Finesse a step bulge just above the anchor then wander up and right to another bulge. Above the last bulge climb huge holds to a third set of anchors. (5.10a 100 ft.)
Rap twice with a single 60m rope to the top of pitch 1. From the anchor at the top of pitch one rap into the gully on the East side of the formation.
TCUs cams to 3" and draws for upper two pitches.
BETA PHOTO: the route
View from the P1 anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Bolted variation start to Thin Air (5.10a) on Koal...
Sep 23, 2013
Both bolts in the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch are starting to wiggle. The belay puts shear stress on them so they should be fine for a while, but they probably deserve to be replaced sometime soon.
There's a 3rd solid bolt above the rap bolts which could be used to back up the loose ones, and plenty of places that you could wedge yourself to belay a second in the case that you really don't trust the bolts.
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2007
You can do the bolted 5.9 to the right as the first pitch of this climb if you don't have any gear. Really a lot of fun. At the end (anchors) of the 5.9, you have to keep climbing to the anchors of the 5.10 first pitch of this climb which are up and around some blocks. Just keep going until you see them, it's not hard.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
For the last pitch, clip the bolt off the belay and then head right and then up..... I tried for a while to go straight up until I realized the error of my ways.
|By Josh Lagalo|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 14, 2010
I would really discourage folks from rapping this route. If others are on route(pretty popular route IMO) then they will be tossing ropes and rapping right on top of other parties. They should top out and then use the single rappel off the backside, same as Round River descent.
Also more than once i've seen parties get the rope stuck pulling off the 3rd bolted belay. It's not really set up for a rappel.
|By Toby B|
Sep 15, 2010
On that note, if you decide to walk off, I think the scree surfing around the backside (south side) of the rock is a bit easier than the north. That was how it felt to me, anyway, although it probably didn't help that when I went down the north side I was barefoot.
|By Bryan Hall|
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 9, 2013
To add to the decent options... I agree that rapping the route could be a little tough on the rope and recommend other alternatives. A bit of 3rd and 4th class scrambling gets you to the backside rappel or walk off. The walk off is an EASY 8 foot 3rd class down climb to a ledge and then a walk down 3rd class dihedral formation to put you right next to "The Knob 10a"
After that the scree slope sucks no matter what.
Finally, the 5.8 trad pitch is infinitely better in my opinion than the one move wonder bolted route to the right. Bring a single rack for comfortable leaders (who can use nuts) and you'll have a blast.