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Thin Air Face
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
DMZ 
Freedom 
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp 
Missing Link 
No Mans Land 
Pro Choice 
Rapid Transit 
Repulsion 
Saigons, The 
Standard Route 
Thin Air 
Thinner 
Toe Crack 
Turner's Flake 
Windfall 
Worm Drive 

Thin Air Face 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Partly Cloudy
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Chance of Rain
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EMS guide Dave Lottman on the last pitch.

Description 

The Thin Air Face is a very popular spot but it tends to handle the heavy traffic very well due to a large quantity of quality routes. From the over populated classic Thin Air (5.6) to Still in Saigon (5.8) and killer link ups like Windfall (5.10a) to Missing Link (5.10a) you will get what you came for. The list goes on and on and I don’t want to list them all but just remember that there is a reason the thin air face is so popular, beautiful face climbing, comfortable belays, and a few kick ass cracks thrown in for spice. Go there and have fun, just don’t plan on getting on Thin Air on a weekend without having to wait your turn.


Getting There 

Find the appropriate sign and follow the trail. The trail curves a bit, you will pass a boulder that often has chalk on it but I’ve never seen anyone on it. After the boulder you head up to Mordor Wall a huge blank rock face that deserves its name. Skirt the cliff to the left and up hill. To your right will be revealed a pretty, less than vertical rock face. On its left side it is marked by The Big Flush a dirty gully choked with trees and brush, on the right it is separated from Mordor Wall by an obvious chimney (Standard Route 5.7).

Pick your line and enjoy.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Thin Air Face:
No Mans Land   5.6 X     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
Thin Air   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   
Toe Crack   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   
The Saigons   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   
Turner's Flake   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Thinner   5.8 R     Trad   
Repulsion   5.8+ R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
DMZ   5.9- PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Missing Link   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Freedom   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Windfall   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Rapid Transit   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 260 feet   
Worm Drive   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in Thin Air Face

Featured Route For Thin Air Face
The Bong anchors of pitch 1, with Nuria at pitch 2's anchors.

Thin Air 5.6  NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face
Although the crux fourth pitch earns this classic climb's 5.6 rating, new and seasoned climbers alike find adventure on each of Thin Air's pitches. The run-out (but easy) first pitch gains fixed bong anchors. Pitch two's traverse protects well, but offers a keen pucker as the ground drops away (and it's sometimes a little wet) en route to bolts. P1 and P2 can be combined when traffic allows. Pitch three climbs the face into a fun chimney, gaining a ledge (crowds easily, gear anchor takes variety...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Thin Air Face Slideshow Add Photo
The Thin Air Face as seen from Recompense (5.9)....

The Thin Air Face as seen from Recompense (5.9)......

This is pitch 2, the Thin Air Traverse. I understand there used to be a few pitons along the traverse. These are no longer there but the route is easy to protect. Guide book says it's easiest to step down from the pedastal belay station at the end of p1, and then work you way up and across along a series of horizontal cracks to the cold shut belay station at the end of p2. some people run p2 and p3 together, but I didn't as I was with my 12-year-old daughter and wanted to be close to her on the traverse.

This is pitch 2, the Thin Air Traverse. I understa...

a dude on thin air on a pretty summer day...

a dude on thin air on a pretty summer day...

Not a perfect picture for this but enough to give you an idea of where things are... Just some of the main routes... Lines are not all exact...

BETA PHOTO: Not a perfect picture for this but enough to give ...

thin air face

thin air face

the right side of Thin Air face with a great view of the Standard Route chimney... A guide and client are in the upper left on Thin Air...

the right side of Thin Air face with a great view ...

Early morning shot of the face taken from the road

Early morning shot of the face taken from the road


Comments on Thin Air Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 29, 2007

By far my favorite bottom to top route on this section of cliff is the Toe Crack-Thin Air-Pine Tree Eliminate link-up. It is wonderful, hands everything from face climbing to traverses to hand-jams to a strenous finish. Just an awesome outing.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 29, 2007

That is a great link-up... another cool one for a harder day is Windfall to Missing Link to Thin Air to Airation... lots of cool 5.10 face climbing to a 5.11a finger crack... fun times...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 15, 2009

Albeit my first day up to Cathedral, first day following placed gear... I had a blast doing Windfall to Turner's Flake link-up, Missing Link, finishing up the top of Thin Air. Absolutely lovelee. :)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 16, 2009

you did impress me with your first day jeff but the link-up went from FREEDOM to turners rather than windfall... i think i will do windfall to turners at some point though cause that would be cool... again nice job following my tour : )