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Thin Air Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
DMZ T,S 
Freedom T 
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 
Missing Link T 
No Mans Land T 
Pro Choice T 
Rapid Transit T 
Repulsion T 
Saigons, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thin Air T 
Thinner T 
Toe Crack T 
Turner's Flake T 
Windfall T 
Worm Drive S 

Thin Air Face  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.06342, -71.16578 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 100,863
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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EMS guide Dave Lottman on the last pitch.

Description 

The Thin Air Face is a very popular spot but it tends to handle the heavy traffic very well due to a large quantity of quality routes. From the over populated classic Thin Air (5.6) to Still in Saigon (5.8) and killer link ups like Windfall (5.10a) to Missing Link (5.10a) you will get what you came for. The list goes on and on and I donít want to list them all but just remember that there is a reason the thin air face is so popular, beautiful face climbing, comfortable belays, and a few kick ass cracks thrown in for spice. Go there and have fun, just donít plan on getting on Thin Air on a weekend without having to wait your turn.

Getting There 

Find the appropriate sign and follow the trail. The trail curves a bit, you will pass a boulder that often has chalk on it but Iíve never seen anyone on it. After the boulder you head up to Mordor Wall a huge blank rock face that deserves its name. Skirt the cliff to the left and up hill. To your right will be revealed a pretty, less than vertical rock face. On its left side it is marked by The Big Flush a dirty gully choked with trees and brush, on the right it is separated from Mordor Wall by an obvious chimney (Standard Route 5.7).

Pick your line and enjoy.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Thin Air Face:
Thin Air   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
No Mans Land   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Toe Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Thinner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad   
Turner's Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Saigons   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Repulsion   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
DMZ   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Freedom   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Windfall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Missing Link   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Rapid Transit   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 260'   
Pro Choice   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 115'   
Worm Drive   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Thin Air Face

Featured Route For Thin Air Face
Me exiting Toe Crack and entering the traverse to Thin Air

Toe Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face
Though Toe Crack is not its own route it is done on its own more often than not so I figured I'd add it as a route.... It is actually the second pitch of Repulsion (5.8+) which is not too popular due to being a bit spicy.... If you are looking to climb a perfect 5.7 hand crack, Toe Crack is for you for sure...It is also one of the first cracks to dry after rain which adds to its allure....Pitch 1: (5.5) Start on the ramp that leads up and right to Turner's Flake.... When you get under Turner's, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Thin Air Face Slideshow Add Photo
Not a perfect picture for this but enough to give you an idea of where things are... Just some of the main routes... Lines are not all exact...
BETA PHOTO: Not a perfect picture for this but enough to give ...
the right side of Thin Air face with a great view of the Standard Route chimney... A guide and client are in the upper left on Thin Air...
the right side of Thin Air face with a great view ...
The Thin Air Face as seen from Recompense (5.9)....
The Thin Air Face as seen from Recompense (5.9)......
This is pitch 2, the Thin Air Traverse. I understand there used to be a few pitons along the traverse. These are no longer there but the route is easy to protect. Guide book says it's easiest to step down from the pedastal belay station at the end of p1, and then work you way up and across along a series of horizontal cracks to the cold shut belay station at the end of p2. some people run p2 and p3 together, but I didn't as I was with my 12-year-old daughter and wanted to be close to her on the traverse.
This is pitch 2, the Thin Air Traverse. I understa...
thin air face
thin air face
a dude on thin air on a pretty summer day...
a dude on thin air on a pretty summer day...
Early morning shot of the face taken from the road
Early morning shot of the face taken from the road

Comments on Thin Air Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 29, 2007
By far my favorite bottom to top route on this section of cliff is the Toe Crack-Thin Air-Pine Tree Eliminate link-up. It is wonderful, hands everything from face climbing to traverses to hand-jams to a strenous finish. Just an awesome outing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 29, 2007
That is a great link-up... another cool one for a harder day is Windfall to Missing Link to Thin Air to Airation... lots of cool 5.10 face climbing to a 5.11a finger crack... fun times...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 15, 2009
Albeit my first day up to Cathedral, first day following placed gear... I had a blast doing Windfall to Turner's Flake link-up, Missing Link, finishing up the top of Thin Air. Absolutely lovelee. :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 16, 2009
you did impress me with your first day jeff but the link-up went from FREEDOM to turners rather than windfall... i think i will do windfall to turners at some point though cause that would be cool... again nice job following my tour : )