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Lower Freeway Wall
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Thigh Master 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tucker Tech, Todd Gordon and Tom Burke 12/99
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Thigh Master

Description 

Climb a fun, awkward start (face, stem) to a thin crack (right hand) below the first bolt. Protect the crack, then step up and clip the first bolt. Try to resist the A0 moves that follow. Get established in the shallow face bowl leading to the second bolt, clip that rig, then up. Fun!


Location 

Right of Smooth As Silk, on South facing narrow buttress with two visible bolt anchors on a shallow concave face. Faces the road. Kind of at the last transition of the crag from SE to the SW end. Rappel from same sling nest anchor as Smooth As Silk.


Protection 

Standard rack. Two bolts. I found a 00 TCU, a #2 TCU, a couple 1/2" cams, a small nut and a #1 Camalot particularly useful.



Photos of Thigh Master Slideshow Add Photo
Fred Batliner at the crux.
Fred Batliner at the crux.
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This mixed route takes gear down low then the two bolts as described. What isn't mentioned in the description is what happens higher, out of view from the ground. Unless you are finishing using the Smooth as Silk exit the crack gets wide, like 4-4.5" kinda wide. You've got some options in the flake to the left with smaller stuff like 1/2" just before it opens up but beyond that it's pretty big. Not knowing this detail left me running out the wide and hauling my largest piece (#2 Camalot) all the way to the summit.

Clipping the first bolt may be a problem for shorter folk. I'm 5.7 and reached it from the stance, now climbing beyond that bolt was much more challenging.

Great route, surprised I've never seen anyone on it. EVER.

Anchor today consisted of way too much webbing and a few superfluous biners just to add to the junk show. It's clean now with three sets of runners with various carbon dating but all with life left in them along with two rap rings. The rap appears to be problematic with a bush directly below the anchor. Not to worry, drop the line down climbers right (avoiding stacking rope in the flakes below) and rap what is basically the 5.9 route. Step back a few feet on the pull and it's clean with no hang ups.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 15, 2014

Kind of a one-move wonder with that one move protected by a 1/4" rivet holding onto a 3/8" bolt hanger. The edge of the bolt head barely makes contact with the hanger. This is dangerous and I recommend not leading this route until the correct hardware is installed.

Easy to TR after Smooth as Silk, though.