|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Tucker Tech, Todd Gordon and Tom Burke 12/99|
|Submitted By:||Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2008|
|Comments on Thigh Master||Add Comment|
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This mixed route takes gear down low then the two bolts as described. What isn't mentioned in the description is what happens higher, out of view from the ground. Unless you are finishing using the Smooth as Silk exit the crack gets wide, like 4-4.5" kinda wide. You've got some options in the flake to the left with smaller stuff like 1/2" just before it opens up but beyond that it's pretty big. Not knowing this detail left me running out the wide and hauling my largest piece (#2 Camalot) all the way to the summit.
Clipping the first bolt may be a problem for shorter folk. I'm 5.7 and reached it from the stance, now climbing beyond that bolt was much more challenging.
Great route, surprised I've never seen anyone on it. EVER.
Anchor today consisted of way too much webbing and a few superfluous biners just to add to the junk show. It's clean now with three sets of runners with various carbon dating but all with life left in them along with two rap rings. The rap appears to be problematic with a bush directly below the anchor. Not to worry, drop the line down climbers right (avoiding stacking rope in the flakes below) and rap what is basically the 5.9 route. Step back a few feet on the pull and it's clean with no hang ups.
From: La Mesa, CA
Mar 15, 2014
Kind of a one-move wonder with that one move protected by a 1/4" rivet holding onto a 3/8" bolt hanger. The edge of the bolt head barely makes contact with the hanger. This is dangerous and I recommend not leading this route until the correct hardware is installed.
Easy to TR after Smooth as Silk, though.