|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||T. Goss, F. Antognini|
|Submitted By:||Patrick Stark on May 6, 2013|
|Comments on Thieves Karma||Add Comment|
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By Ira O'Meara
From: Hardwick, VT
Mar 3, 2015
|That second pitch is wicked! The first was not so great but the second up the steep smooth upper face was killer. I think it is accurately rated at 10d, but that said I'd say that it is significantly harder than any of the other similarly rated climbs on this wall. It must be a pretty new route, someone had lightly marked key holds with blue chalk, which I was greatful for, otherwise I would not have been able to climb it clean.|
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Some route correction(s):
One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.
Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prophesy Wall.