Thief of Wives  V7 PG13

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Type:  Boulder, 20 feet Consensus:  V6-7 [details] FA:  Jeremy Mariette Submitted By:  Jonathan Williams on May 22, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

route. roof burner is just out of view (it's on th...

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Description 

This is the lone boulder problem at Red Wing, and it's a doozy! Start on a small left hand crimp and an excellent two finger pocket for your right hand. A thin and technical start leads into slopey sidepulls and a slap to the arete. Body tension and a cool head are key through the high crux, crimps and sidepulls to the top. A slip will lead to a long ride to the ground!

This climb is an eliminate. None of the jugs or corner are on for your hands until above the "triangle" of the corner 10-12 feet up. What feet are "on" aren't necessarily clear. I was able to do it using just dishes/smears/heel hooking for feet, although you'll be desperate to keep your feet off the jugs at the crux! Remember, the only person you have to answer to is yourself (and your friends). :)

Bolts were added after the first ascent; I'm not certain who did, and suspect that it was without the consent of the first ascentionist, though I don't know for certain. Nonetheless, this is a boulder problem, not a sport route.

Protection 

There are pointed rocks that scatter the otherwise flat landing. Two-three pads and a spotter are key.