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They Call the Wind !&% 

They Call the Wind !&% 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Swain,Teresa Krolak, 1999
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: GabeO on May 13, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Gabe leading.

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Description 

Perhaps the best route in this section. Some routefinding is needed. Careful getting to the first bolt--if you slip, it's a long way down!

Climb the face of the huge right-facing corner, past five bolts, to near the top, where it goes left around the arete.


Location 

To get down, a seventy-meter rope (or doubles) is probably needed, unless you want to rap to the end of a sixty-meter rope, and then scramble down the bottom of the Man Behind the Screen crack/corner.


Protection 

standard rack



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David leading.
David leading.
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By Greg Barnes
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

You can get a thin hand-size cam (e.g. #1 Camalot) in the horizontal break before the first bolt, but a ground anchor is strongly recommended for the belayer regardless.

I replaced the 2nd bolt on this route this spring--it was a good bolt with a bad thin SMC hanger, but since the head of the bolt was damaged I had to drill a new bolt and chop the old.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Feb 15, 2007

Anyone who replaces Swainbolts gets my vote for sainthood-I repeated the route before the makeover and was unthrilled with the hardware. Thanks Greg!
This route was funky and not something I'd recommend to a sub-5.10 leader. How many routes have a thank-god mono? Pro on this one felt iffy at times and there's potential to pull down loose rock on your belayer near the top. Heads up if you see Swain's name o the first ascent!