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There is no White Knight 
Two Balls In A Sack 

There is no White Knight 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Paul Dieterle
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Paul Dieterle on Oct 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Chris on the top.

Description 

There is no White Knight is a sit start from a positive crimp rail. After two really hard crimp moves, you move to the triangle ledge and up the fun topout. This is a very fun dihedral, despite being a short problem. The topout features engaging moves on comfy holds.

Location 

Straight up the dihedral on the west side of the Quandary Boulder. Pretty obvious...

Protection 

Two pads ought to be plenty. The landing is uncharacteristically flat for a talus field.


Photos of There is no White Knight Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing during the snow- Vince on the crimp.
Climbing during the snow- Vince on the crimp.
The start.  Hard. <br />Photos: M. Lohre
The start. Hard.
Photos: M. Lohre
Psyched after the send.
Psyched after the send.
This is the rose move on the topout
This is the rose move on the topout
Second move. Hard.
Second move. Hard.
AJ on the upper moves.
AJ on the upper moves.

Comments on There is no White Knight Add Comment
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By SteveSchultz
Dec 8, 2012

For those that haven't seen it yet this is an extremely aesthetic line and I'm excited to get back up there with a pad or two to try it! Paul, did you start matched on the right wall or with one hand on the left and one on the right?

There's also 3-4 other nearby boulders that look like they might have some nice problems on them.
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 8, 2012

Hey Steve,

I started matched on the right wall. The crux of this problem is definitely the first two moves, but it's not too bad when you get the body positioning and lock off right. Bring your edging shoes!
By SteveSchultz
Apr 21, 2013

Did this one today. Thought it was a great problem!
By Ian CB
Apr 21, 2013

Gonna have to check this out!
By SteveSchultz
Apr 21, 2013

You should. The rose move up top is pretty damn cool.
By madisonchoss
Oct 15, 2013

Similar in difficulty and quality to Fat Pants. Nice one, Paul.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 18, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Awesome problem! The holds feel great in cold conditions.
By Ian CB
Nov 20, 2013

If you start with your left hand on a sidepull on the left wall, it is a bit harder and climbs very differently. Known as the "Dark Knight variation"
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
4 days ago
rating: V7 7A+

Doesn't this boulder problem qualify as a 4 star problem? Nice setting, an obvious start hold, interesting moves, a topout, and a relatively flat landing. All the stars. Nicely done, Paul.