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Therapeutic Tyranny T 

Therapeutic Tyranny 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) John Long and Mike Lechlinski, December 1978, FL: Jonny Woodward, 1982
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 23, 2011

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This takes the line up to and out of the big hole, just left of the Bendix Claws. Climbing into the hole is not too bad, but is thin and unprotected. You can camp out in the hole before committing to climbing up and out on tight hand jams in slippery polished rock--except for the one sharp crystal biting into the back of your hand.

Gongratulations! You've completed the sandbag crux. Pull up and out, and finish on the enjoyable handcrack.


Just left of Bendix Claws. Look for the big hole in the wall, that's your route.


Gear to 2".

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 23, 2011

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