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The first pitch of the route.
Theodore climbs the southeast flank of Greyrock to the summit ridge in five pitches. A good, easy climb that starts in a wide crack framed by two small dihedrals on either side. The climb is by no means technically difficult, but combined with the lengthy approach, it is a tiring outing in the summer months.
P1. By far the most enjoyable pitch of the route. Climb the crack with good fist jams up to a comfortable belay ledge at the top of the crack.
P2. Angles up and left up a lower angle face crack to a smaller belay perch under a large overhang.
P3. Continues up and left of the large overhang on pretty non-descript terrain with a lot of lower fifth-class scrambling.
P4. Another enjoyable pitch up a low angle slab with good protection.
P5. A short scramble to the top.
Good multi-pitch route for the beginning trad leader.
Standard rack with a full set of stoppers and SLCDs up to a 3.5" Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: The cracks start about 10 feet up on a ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches can vary widely. This "direct" rout...
.... and the second.
Midway on the first pitch.
|By Barry Gereb|
Jul 3, 2001
why the bomb rating? Bomb="This route was a waste of time; it just plain sucked. Not many routes get this rating; when it does, you probably shouldn't bother."
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 3, 2001
My mistake on the bomb rating (clicked the wrong button). The route is actually pretty enjoyable and it's in a great location.
|By Fletch F. Fletcher|
Sep 25, 2003
Along the left side of the roof move far out left to a water streak that angles back up right towards the top of the massive block. Staying close to the left facing dihedral will give you a fine surprise of 5.8ish slabs.
|By Timmy! Tormey|
From: Fakeville, USA
Dec 14, 2004
Great route for the beginning trad leader. Good pro, bomber anchors, not exposed, etc.
|By Russell Oakley|
Jan 19, 2005
Nice route on nice, featured rock. The middle pitches reminded me of the Fifth Flatiron or Seal Rock, kinda.
P1 was pretty straightforward, very good pro. After crossing under the big roof, I pretty much went straight up. Staying close to the left- facing dihedral as mentioned above felt more like 5.6s to me: there were many very nice small edges, and I was comfortable climbing without the rope. Continuing straight up just to the right of the big juniper, there is another 5.6s section, protectible with small wires/TCUs. I found another 5.5- 5.6ish spot near the top, just above a huge ledge, in a very shallow, short dihedral/ dish. I finished above using a slightly awkward, vertical dihedral capped with a block; there is a nice hand crack at the top, on the left side of the block (5.6).
Rack: Going light would be nice, as the approach is pretty long. If you are willing to run it out a bit, I think this rack would suffice:
1 set Stoppers 4-11
1 set Friends 1.5- 3
If you want to sew it up, bring the full set of cams, plus an extra (large) piece for p1, plus more draws.
Approach: The Forest Service has recently installed trail- marker posts. Upon reaching the second post, look toward the rock and find a faint trail leading up the hill. Follow your nose through the trees, angling back (west) a bit, and you should come right up to the base of the route.
|By Be Esperanza|
From: Asheville, NC
Mar 23, 2005
This is a good route to solo for those comfortable doing so. The first pitch is a great hand crack with plenty of stuff to help on the sides. After that going up is a matter of choice, and there are some really fun face moves higher up. I usually move left around the huge roof, and then keep angling slightly to right. A fun finish is to crank a roof above a flatter section directly to the summit.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
May 3, 2009
The P1 handcrack on this route is stellar - totally sinker hand jams, and very secure. Excellent for a new leader. The rest of the climb, however, doesn't deliver any consistent terrain. After turning the large roof on the left, the climbing is 4th/low 5th class with a few short steps of 5.4 - 5.6 thrown in. There is no severe or R rated terrain on this route.
From: Occidental, CA
Aug 24, 2010
The P1 crack was tons of fun, but once that ended I felt like unroping and hiking to the top. Didn't lend itself to a sustained 'multi-pitch' feel. Still that crack was great.
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 27, 2010
When combined with a trail-run, this route makes for a great scramble. If you feel like spicing it up a bit, move right and climbi the lightning crack thing on Simon.
Also, finish on the right angling quartzite groove above a large juniper - super cool!