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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Theodore Roosevelt 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Howe, 1999
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: View of the second pitch climbs on the Bear

Description 

Theodore Roosevelt starts from a two-bolt anchor above the first pitch of Mark's Moderate, but left of the Mark's Moderate anchors. The climb wanders up some slab before pulling a small bulge and then finishes on easier climbing. The anchors are about 20 feet back from the edge of the bear on a right-facing piece of rock.


Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is a long way above the 5th bolt, but the climbing to it is ~5.4. Long sligs will also be useful if you top-rope this route. You can walk off towards the crystal pockets area (see area overview map) or rappell twice.

LOTS of LOSE ROCK UP TOP! Bring helmets and be aware of people at the base of the Bear.



Comments on Theodore Roosevelt Add Comment
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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Follows the left gray streak over a bulge or two. Hidden pockets on excellent rock. Watch out for some gravel at the anchor. A good route.

By Floyd Hayes
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

From the base it looks low angle and easy, but it's steeper, more sustained and harder than it appears. I didn't think it was runout. The stud of a hangerless bolt protrudes a few feet to the left of the second bolt. The fifth bolt looks new, but it is placed beside a solid crack that could take a small cam. I carried along some cams but didn't need any. Be careful at the top--I nearly popped when a handhold broke just above the final bolt.