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The Zoo
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calder's Route 
Excessive Bail 
Lightning Bolt 
Monkey Bars 
Zoo, The 

The Zoo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 1,095
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 17, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Fun climbing.

Description 

Vertical climbing on solid limestone. A thin start in small, sharp two- and three-finger pockets and small footholds to the first bolt. Mostly slopers and sidepulls after that, but there is a jug or two. A few holds look like they might come off in your hand, but they proved bomber.

The route is essentially vertical to the third bolt, then slopes back a bit, and finally is slightly overhanging from the fourth bolt to the chains. (Slightly overhanging meaning: you donít really notice it as you climb it, but as you lower off you think, ďOh, thatís why it felt that way...Ē)


Location 

Right-most route on the main Zoo wall (the wall facing the gap through which The Zoo is entered).


Protection 

6 bolts to chains



Photos of The Zoo Slideshow Add Photo
The Zoo from the east. <br />2 <a href='/v/lightning-bolt/106158989'>Lightning Bolt</a> 5.11b/c <br />3 <a href='/v/excessive-bail/105967626'>Excessive Bail</a> 5.11a <br />4 <a href='/v/the-zoo/105932084'>The Zoo</a> 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: The Zoo from the east.
2 Lightning Bolt 5.11b/c
3 [...
Comments on The Zoo Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Mar 18, 2007

Really cool finger pocket sequence

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 9, 2008

The first half is really good. Up higher the character changed a bit wishing for more of the first part.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Aug 25, 2008

An unintended consequence of bolting Monkey Bars is that there is now a more direct ending to this route. Instead of going left at the third bolt, go straight up to the 4th bolt of Monkey Bars. This variation is probably easier than the original The Zoo route, but not as good. Stick to the classic.

By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The crux is definitely the start. Small sharp pockets with sketchy feet until you clip the first bolt. Go along small crimpy rail to better but not obvious holds. Easy top-out.

By Christopher Miller
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

When i did this climb yesterday i wasnt sure what any of them were rated...bad idea when you arent an amazing climber! Tricky beginning but i agree, stay to the left its much better climbing!

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The finger pockets on the bottom of the route were sweet! I didn't feel like that was the hardest part of the climb for me. The slopey holds on the rest of the route (which was in the sun at the time) were tougher for me. It was probably all the sweat. I wish the bottom part of the route were longer, and it would definitely get another star from me.

By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 13, 2012

I agree with Kenny, the start wasn't the crux for me either, it was the slightly overhanging slopers at the top. I wish the finger pockets at the start lasted longer also, they are awesome!

By Tim Moore
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Very tricky first start really only one way to do it with very limited foot holds and a rather higher first bolt although the fall isn't bad at all. Probably the best belay spot in the entire canyon.