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The Zoo

Select Route:
Armadillo 
Cannonball 
Chimp 
Edgehog 
Geezers go Sport 
Hippocrite 
Jail Bird 
Lynx Jinx 
Monkey in the Middle 
On Beyond Zebra! 
One Brick Shy 
Put Me In The Zoo 
Scar Tissue 
Skin The Cat 

The Zoo 


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Page Views: 12,981
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
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Lee Hansche starting up Hippocrite (5.12a) the onl...

Description 

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Getting There 

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14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Zoo:
Put Me In The Zoo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chimp   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
One Brick Shy   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Edgehog   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Geezers go Sport   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Monkey in the Middle   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Scar Tissue   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 45'   
Hippocrite   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Classics in The Zoo

Featured Route For The Zoo
Starting up Hippocrite...

Hippocrite 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo
Climb the steep and sequential overhanging pockets to a series of big powerful moves between jugs and pretty good holds... the crux is a huge undercling move that links two big huecos across a blank face... The moves above there are still big and hard but not as bad, so long as you can keep your cool and not get pumped... I was able to get a little rest in the form or an OK horizontal knee bar and a jug before the crux move... with a knee pad and the right size leg it could be a really good rest...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of The Zoo Slideshow Add Photo
Leah in the arch at The Zoo.
Leah in the arch at The Zoo.
Apparently the "felled tree bridge" mentioned in the guide book no longer exists...
BETA PHOTO: Apparently the "felled tree bridge" mentioned in t...
Comments on The Zoo Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2007

Description:
The Zoo was a late developing sport crag at Red River, perhaps as it is not as obvious from the road, but with a moderate approach to the dozen or so low to mid-range sport climbs, 10's and 11's. It is a small wonder it is not a crowded destination. It is a perfect place for a small group of climbers at varying levels of ability to visit, particularly on a warmer day, since the crag is mostly shaded during the hot parts of the day, facing primarily East and North.

The climbing here is almost exclusively sport, but a few hard-looking cracks await ascents, and at least one ("Jailbird, 10d") has been climbed. Cracks on either side of "Chimp, 10b" look like they would go with only moderate difficulty, if even that, though it might be most prudent to clip the first bolt or two on "Chimp" to approach them.
At the far left and of the cliff, there are a few cracks and corners that give the appearance of offering harder lines if someone were to undertake the effort to clean and climb them.

The popular climbs here seem to be the warm up, "Put Me In the Zoo (9+)", The lower end routes "One Brick Shy (10c)" and "Chimp (10b)" and the moderately difficult routes "Geezers Go Sport (11b)" and "Monkey In the Middle (11b)."
"Scar Tissue (12a)" and "Hypocrite (12a)" both seem to get the best 'reviews' but I never saw anyone else get on them. Since both are short and not hard at the grade, perhaps they would make great projects for climbers more generally fit for the average grades at the cliff.

Directions:
They sound more complex and difficult to follow than they really are. The approach might be about 10-15 minutes in all. Park as for Roadside and look back behind you, opposite of roadside for a trail. Follow it.
More specifically, Hike toward the stream from the south end of the parking lot and continue up the trail as it crosses the creek on stones, or from what I hear- now a fallen tree. Either way, you continue uphill for a few hundred yards to the right of this stream toward a rock band and eventually reach the base of a wall. Follow the wall left as it grows into a large amphitheatre, where all of the established routes are.