East-facing, steep limestone wall with five bolted sport routes. There is a mine entrance at the left (south) base of the wall. There is a fire ring sheltered by a short, overhanging wall 40 feet east.
Proceed up the canyon to the first stream crossing (small wooden bridge). Don't cross the stream but continue on the right (south) side of the stream for about 100 feet (35 steps for me). Turn right up a gully and follow the path. On the right (west) after approximately 200 feet you will find a small notch that leads to The Zoo.
Starts to the right of the bolts and moves left after the 2nd bolt. Rock at the bottom is solid w/small pockets and edges. The seam that runs between the 3rd and 4th bolt offers some good hand holds. Crux is getting above the 4th bolt. Milk the rest at the 4th bolt for the rest of the route. Holds have fallen from the upper section over the years and has changed the route a little....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Half the chains on The Zoo (5.10a) are missing. There are 3 rusty links on one, and the other is just a naked bolt. We didn't look closely at the others. I did notice that there are 2 more bolted routes to the left of the cave/mine entrance (Opposite Lightening Bolt), FYI.
I wonder if anyone ever sent the project just left (basically under) Excessive Bail. Start to the left and work up tiny crimps angel leftwards to the crack that heads up to join EB. Tristan and I were doing it on TR (years ago) trying to get it wired before we pulled out the pads to go for it. We didn't think it was a good idea to bolt it. We ended up getting distracted by other fun projects before the real send (I know we both got it on TR at least once).