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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace S 
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 
Fastest Drill S 
Grapefruit Dance S 
Indecent Exposure T 
Men at Work T,S 
Over the Rainbow T,S 
Pete & Bob's T 
Pillar Climb T 
Rainbow Bridge T,S 
Trigger Finger S,TR 
Unzipped S,TR 
Warren - Johnson S,TR 
Zipper, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Zipper 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A0 [details]
FA: Gary Zeigler and John Auld, 1965. FFA Rolofson and Britt, 1984
Season: all
Page Views: 997
Submitted By: SAL on Jan 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Richard leading the free variation of the Zipper, ...
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  • Description 

    This is fun but sandy climbing on marginal pins and spinning quarter inch bolts. This route must go through many changes over the years. We felt like we were cleaning a new route. This does not see too much traffic. It is a good one to tick once the rest of the Garden is getting played out.

    Pitch 1: Climb Unzipped to the two eye bolt belay at the base of the headwall. (One could climb Cowboy Boot Crack and then downclimb or lower to these anchors, but it would just add some more time.)

    Pitch 2: The bizz. Climb up and right from the belay following old quarter inch bolts with no hangers. A fall here could be fun. Establish below the roof and clip the first pin. Pull the roof on sandy holds (5.10ish), then continue up the line of pins. The crux is the top two clips where the holds run out and the feet have been lost over time. Crux (5.11d??) Belay at a two drilled angle anchor with rap slings.

    Pitch 3: Short and spicy. Climb up and right over loose rock to passed two pins to the summit.

    Rap from here.

    Descent Beta:

    Rap off the east side of the spire off two drill angles into Tourist Gully. We beef'd up the anchor a bit with two new runners and put a locker on it. The Original is still in place with an old military cable thing and a single piece of shotty webbing. 1 60 meter rope will do the job for this route.


    Location 

    This is on Tweedledumbshire Spire on the Southwest side of North Gateway.

    It is just above Cowboy Boot Crack.

    Climbed Unzipped to get there.


    Protection 

    Old drilled pins and quarter inchers. Yeah!

    12 draws or so. Maybe a few extra just in case you wanna clip some manky stuff.

    Bob D's book lists bringing a #3, 3.5 and a 4. We did not bring any of these. Nor would I have wanted to place one in that rock :)



    Photos of The Zipper Slideshow Add Photo
    Topping out on the 3rd pitch.
    Topping out on the 3rd pitch.
    My kid painted the route for us. Pitch 2 and 3 shown here. We did not mark the pro as we cannot recall which pins sucked and which ones could maybe hold.
    BETA PHOTO: My kid painted the route for us. Pitch 2 and 3 sho...
    My partner kicked this rock off while rapping. I was caught at the anchor and could only duck down. It broke in half over my shoulder and helmet. Be careful, still some loose stuff up there.
    My partner kicked this rock off while rapping. I w...
    Scott starting up the Zipper, circa 1986.
    Scott starting up the Zipper, circa 1986.
    Comments on The Zipper Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 28, 2010

    The Rolofson/Britt FFA starts from the Fastest Drill anchor and traverses left to the bolt line, avoiding any need for aid climbing.

    By LawHous
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Mar 14, 2013

    Thinking about climbing this route. Anyone have some updated beta at all? Are the bolts still loose? I noticed hangers were hacked off some bolts by a line of old pitons, were these the spinning bolts?