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The Zip
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The Zip 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ward Robinson, Blake Robinson, 1979
Page Views: 4,310
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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A shot of The Zip.

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


It's impossible to miss this climb once at the crag. Start by scrambling onto the obvious ledge. The hand and finger locks on this crack are great, but it's too small for solid foot jams in most places. Small edges provide thin but adequate feet in most places...except the crux. A very fun and well protected climb. It might be a tough on-sight for a beginning 10a leader, but that shouldn't deter anyone from trying.


Finger and hand-sized nuts and cams. Take as many or as few as you like. Chains at the top, although you could walk off if you wanted to.

Photos of The Zip Slideshow Add Photo
The Zip
The Zip
After leading The Zip!
After leading The Zip!
Logan Jamison closing the Zip.
Logan Jamison closing the Zip.
The Zip
The Zip
James Sullivan sending in the shade.   Photo: Core...
James Sullivan sending in the shade. Photo: Core...

Comments on The Zip Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climbing with extremely good gear. You could place a bomber piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. A perfect intro 5.10a lead for someone.
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

I agree exactly with Andy's comments. Ample opportunities for gear!
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2008

Makes for a nice first .10a trad lead or solo.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 21, 2009

Agree, perfect first 5.10. Eats gear in a variety of sizes.
May 8, 2009

Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!
By Mark van Eijk
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent route, quite sustained and surprisingly pumpy! Protects very well but don't get caught sewing it up or the pump can catch up with you (it has for me!). Do it! Then do it again if you get the chance!
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