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It's impossible to miss this climb once at the crag. Start by scrambling onto the obvious ledge. The hand and finger locks on this crack are great, but it's too small for solid foot jams in most places. Small edges provide thin but adequate feet in most places...except the crux. A very fun and well protected climb. It might be a tough on-sight for a beginning 10a leader, but that shouldn't deter anyone from trying.
Finger and hand-sized nuts and cams. Take as many or as few as you like. Chains at the top, although you could walk off if you wanted to.
After leading The Zip!
Logan Jamison closing the Zip.
James Sullivan sending in the shade.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Great climbing with extremely good gear. You could place a bomber piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. A perfect intro 5.10a lead for someone.
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008
I agree exactly with Andy's comments. Ample opportunities for gear!
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2008
Makes for a nice first .10a trad lead or solo.
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
Apr 21, 2009
Agree, perfect first 5.10. Eats gear in a variety of sizes.
May 8, 2009
Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!
|By Mark van Eijk|
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Excellent route, quite sustained and surprisingly pumpy! Protects very well but don't get caught sewing it up or the pump can catch up with you (it has for me!). Do it! Then do it again if you get the chance!