The Yardstik  5.11+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  FFA Alex & Rich New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Rstrang on Oct 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Alex on better holds just past the slopey crux. FA...

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Description 

Climb up the middle of the black streak past difficult moves to better holds in a groove. Go up this to the roof, move slighly right for pro, then climb up left on easier moves (5.9) to the top. Use the chains of Clear Cut to descend.

Location 

Start just right of the Original route(below hanging corner) and climbs the black streak to the left of Clear Cut

Protection 

4 bolts (QDs), red or gold Camalot at the roof - or do the mega runout from the last bolt like Alex.