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Y Crack Buttress
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Y Crack, The T 

The Y Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Wilson et al., 1975
Page Views: 2,584
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Unknown but friendly climbers on The Y Crack, Tahq...


This is an excellent one-pitch hand crack, with sustained difficulty and great protection on good rock. I climbed it via the left start (recommended by others). The crux section (just above the junction of the two starts) has mostly good jams – a slight overhang to the wall and an awkward right lean to the crack make it difficult.


Double up on hand sized pieces and some small stoppers.

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By snowey
Jul 23, 2007

I thought this climb was really fun. Jumped on it after getting annoyed waiting for Whodunit. Reminded me a little of Illusion Dweller.
As opposed to the guy in the picture, I took the left start.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 28, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Maybe I should post the full resolution image. "The guy" in the photo is a very attractive woman on a very attractive rock. I usually downsize photos of people I don't know though.

We took the left line too. Once I saw these two on the right line it made me want to go back to try it that way.
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Jun 6, 2010

Climbed Y crack this weekend and though it was burly. It was baking in the afternoon June sun and I was greasing all over this thing. The Left start has great steep straight in jamming and the upper part is tough! It overhangs maybe 10 feet, super steep!
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 10, 2010

I think the right start is significantly harder (and longer) than the left.
By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Jul 22, 2011

Climbed on 7/21/2011. Awesome climb. Took the right crack. I found no need for small stoppers as mentioned (maybe I wasn't looking hard enough). Climbed with a double rack. Would recommend three #1 C4's if you are leading at your grade. Substantially eases after the crux. Rappelled with a 70 to the base.
By Tricamus
From: Culver City, CA
May 23, 2012

Just did this route on Jared's recommendation, great climb! I did the right-hand start; but I found a lower crack to be a great approach. Just below the right-hand start there is a right-leaning flared hand crack that adds quite a bit of flavor to the climb. Here's a link to a picture showing the crack:
By generationfourth
From: Irvine, CA
Aug 25, 2012

Really good jamming. Doesn't over hang that much, at least I didn't notice it, and the lean isn't too awkward.

Make sure you bring extra cord and rap rings just in case as the top doesn't have rap anchors– just two bolts with a sliding x crusty cord and rap ring. Back it up.
By Tradoholic
Nov 14, 2013

Solid 3 stars. Triples in C4 green and red are nice but not mandatory. Tat anchor sucks, bring a knife and some replacement, bolts are good though. FYI, route finishes climbers right of the anchor, so top out, set a trad anchor or look left for the bolts and a hanging belay.

That nice crack to the right is 11c apparently. Can't recall the name...

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