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The Wrinkled Lady

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Ummagumma T 

The Wrinkled Lady  

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Elevation: 10,900'
Location: 36.59464, -118.24533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 697
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2014
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Wrinkled Lady is the highest formation in the uppe...


The Wrinkled Lady is a 500' tall pyramid-shaped wall, rife with geometric dihedrals; taking pride of place at the highest point on the ridgeline above the north side of the Whitney Portal area. This formation can be seen up (wayyyy up) and left of the Whitney Portal Buttress. First climbed by none other than Fred Beckey back in the late 60's/early 70's - his route follows the prominent dihedral system with large roofs shooting straight up the center of the wall (5.8 A3). The difficult and lengthy approach all but left this formation in the realm of true obscurity. More recently though, an increasingly popular moderate free-solo route, Ummagumma III-IV 5.7 A0 or 5.9, was recently established and tackles the prominent dihedral ~200' left of Fred's route. Ummagumma has been described as the "Royal Arches of the Portal."

Getting There 

Climb the first 2,000' of Ummagumma (5.7 A0 or 5.9), or figure out something else which will likely be hours of steep scree-scrambling, bush-whacking, leave-you-cryin'-for-mama type of terrain.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.4 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Wrinkled Lady
Ummagumma follows the yellow line. Photo by Myles ...

Ummagumma 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Wrinkled Lady
The "Royal Arches" of the Portal. A long, wandering adventure route up a huge chunk of stone. Too long for me to try and remember all the twists and turns, but the first ascensionist did a pretty good write-up HERE . The first 1,500 feet will destroy your legs. Steep 3rd and 4th class slabs, with short and intermittent exposed 5th class sections. A short pendulum swing from a fixed rope (A0) can also be ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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