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The Weasel Formation
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Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 22, 2005

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Paul nearing the top of the first pitch

Description 

The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.

P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof. From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.
P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors. 90' A0.
P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts. 60' 5.10.

FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005

Protection 

Doubles/threes.. from Aliens to #3.5 Friends .one #4. Stoppers Medium to small.


Photos of The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer Slideshow Add Photo
Ross starting the 5.10 headwall. Pitch 3
Ross starting the 5.10 headwall. Pitch 3
Layne on the second pitch
Layne on the second pitch
Layne coming up the third pitch.
Layne coming up the third pitch.

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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2010

No known second ascent as of June 2010