|The Weasel Formation
The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer
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The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.
P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof. From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.
P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors. 90' A0.
P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts. 60' 5.10.
FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005
Doubles/threes.. from Aliens to #3.5 Friends .one #4. Stoppers Medium to small.
|Photos of The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer Slideshow
Layne on the second pitch
Ross starting the 5.10 headwall. Pitch 3
Layne coming up the third pitch.
|Comments on The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer
Jun 18, 2010
No known second ascent as of June 2010