The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer
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Paul nearing the top of the first pitch
The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.
P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof. From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.
P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors. 90' A0.
P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts. 60' 5.10.
FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005
Doubles/threes.. from Aliens to #3.5 Friends .one #4. Stoppers Medium to small.
Ross starting the 5.10 headwall. Pitch 3
Layne on the second pitch
Layne coming up the third pitch.
|Comments on The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer
By Little Chamonix
Jun 18, 2010
No known second ascent as of June 2010