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This short climb packs a lot of fun into a little package. Except for the scramble at the bottom, the climbing is varied, sustained, and clean. Stem up the dihedral and follow the steep crack to the anchor.
This climb is to the left of Day of Reckoning and isn't hard to spot. It's a very inviting looking line.
Natural gear with bolted anchor. A couple small nuts protect the dihedral (I used a tiny cam to oppose the first nut, so it wouldn't zipper, since the belayer is kind of far back), then a couple cams for the crack (#2 Friend-ish).
BETA PHOTO: Mark Roth on the upper crack, 2nd crux.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
The chalked up chockstone-like holds down at the lower crux came out today, perhaps loosened by the rain. It still goes. A red Loweball was nice at the lower crux. This sews up pretty well, except for the lower crux.
Jan 12, 2014
The pro got better on this route in the last month. Not sure why. Now takes a solid #4 DMM offset nut before the #2 DMM offset nut (also solid). Actually, you have choices for pro now, which is different. Gold Lowe-ball works great, and a blue/yellow Mastercam at the bottom and again at the top of the thin section are solid. I also enjoy a #5 right before the mantle, but maybe I'm just justifying the purchase.... 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final section are all great and protect even the most conservative climbers well.