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World Through a Bottle, The T 

The World Through a Bottle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jan 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: From below.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short climb packs a lot of fun into a little package. Except for the scramble at the bottom, the climbing is varied, sustained, and clean. Stem up the dihedral and follow the steep crack to the anchor.

Location 

This climb is to the left of Day of Reckoning and isn't hard to spot. It's a very inviting looking line.

Protection 

Natural gear with bolted anchor. A couple small nuts protect the dihedral (I used a tiny cam to oppose the first nut, so it wouldn't zipper, since the belayer is kind of far back), then a couple cams for the crack (#2 Friend-ish).


Photos of The World Through a Bottle Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Roth on the upper crack, 2nd crux.
BETA PHOTO: Mark Roth on the upper crack, 2nd crux.

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

The chalked up chockstone-like holds down at the lower crux came out today, perhaps loosened by the rain. It still goes. A red Loweball was nice at the lower crux. This sews up pretty well, except for the lower crux.
By aSteel
Jan 12, 2014

The pro got better on this route in the last month. Not sure why. Now takes a solid #4 DMM offset nut before the #2 DMM offset nut (also solid). Actually, you have choices for pro now, which is different. Gold Lowe-ball works great, and a blue/yellow Mastercam at the bottom and again at the top of the thin section are solid. I also enjoy a #5 right before the mantle, but maybe I'm just justifying the purchase.... 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final section are all great and protect even the most conservative climbers well.