The Wolgan Valley Rock Climbing
The beautiful Wolgan Valley. Three hours' drive fr...
The Wolgan Valley is a huge valley that dominates the northern reaches of the Blue Mountains. There is a lot of potential in this area for big and hard climbs; most of the easier stuff has been tapped in the form of mixed protection routes (think mainly trad) up to 100 meters in length. Obviously this area is sandstone. Finally, the Wolgan Valley is a little warmer and dryer than the Blue Mountains proper as it sits lower -- truly a year round crag.
There is good camping in some obvious meadows below the walls, and this is a great place to be. It is remote however, and help is a long ways away.
Continue through the Blue Mountains towards the town of Lithgow, and continue on past it on the Great Western Highway (32) for 7 km (bearing right on Castlereagh Hwy (86) and Mudgee Road) to a right hand turn onto Wolgan Road. Follow the paved and good dirt road through the Valley. Eventually this road hits the small town of Newnes, but the crags are interspersed along the way and just past the town on both sides.
Climbing Season For the Australia area.
Weather station 9.6 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Wolgan Valley
Central Direct 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
: The Wolgan Valley
: Old Baldy
Start on a shattered pillar at the base of the cliff. 1) Head up a crack system, then veer left and up to a bolted belay on a ledge. 30 m. 5.9+.2) Continue up the wall past some carrot bolts to a bolted belay. 20 m. 5.8.3) Move left a ways off the belay to a thin crack and follow this up to a roof, past a bush, and into a belay cave. 35 m. 5.9++.4) Wander up and left on easier ground. 20 m. 5.7....[more] Browse More Classics in International