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East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dorothy's Crack T 
Wizard, The T,S 

The Wizard 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Marty Hornick, Dean Kisling 1988
Page Views: 221
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Oct 1, 2012

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Description 

A classic stemming problem on the left end of the Oz formation. Originally done on all gear; the line has received 3 retrobolts to protect the upper stemming crux. You will likely welcome the bolts while on route, as you imagine the FA party trying to place dubious micro stoppers from tenuous stances.

The line starts with a bouldery finger crack and flake, protected easily by a small stopper placed high overhead off the deck. Some easier crack and face climbing leads up to a steep round corner. Get in some good gear at the end of the crack (0.75, 1 camalot) and work your way up into the stem/seams. Continue up beautiful, technical stemming for about 30 feet to the anchors.

Location 

Left-most route on the main wall, left of the other obvious line Dorothy's Crack.I don't know if this one can easily be set-up for TR, as the anchor bolts are a few feet below the lip.

Protection 

Gear to 2", 3 bolts, 2-bolt lower-off anchor.


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