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Wizard, The 

The Wizard 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Heath Bailey. September, 2011.
New Route: Yes
Season: When dry.
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Heath Bailey on Jul 5, 2012
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


Clip the first bolt after making your way to the first ledge at 15'. Launch through the dihedral using inventive beta with stems, face crimps, crack features and a good undercling high. Reach your way through steep terrain and pull onto the arete for a good shake. Steep jugs lead to a sizeable V5 toss off good edges to gain the anchors.

This line was bolted early in the cliff's development but was shelved for a later send, left undone and unprotected through its high crux. Three bolts were added with the good graces of the line's original authors and the route was completed in the early Fall of 2011. Pascal Roberts also climbed the low steep dihedral into Code 3 (2009?) before the top was protected and done.

The low dihedral seeps a great deal of the year so if you find it dry, consider yourself lucky and have a go at it!


This route lies between Let's Roll and Code 3. It takes the steepest line on the cliff to the right side of the 'plank' at its top.


7 bolts and dual quickshuts for anchors.

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