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The Wizard 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Argueso, Tony Lusk (early 1990s)
Page Views: 4,345
Submitted By: GDS on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Eric Ruljancich working for the red point.

Description 

An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked".

Location 

The second line of bolts left of the obvious, bolted crack route - Community Service.

Protection 

Bolts: well protected. Chains for rappel or lower.


Photos of The Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the Wizard
Starting the Wizard
Clay climbing the Wizard on a late February aftern...
Clay climbing the Wizard on a late February aftern...
At the top of The Wizard on a beautiful February a...
At the top of The Wizard on a beautiful February a...
Ryan climbing The Wizard as the sun went down.
Ryan climbing The Wizard as the sun went down.
Rob Stevens on The Wizard
Rob Stevens on The Wizard
Luis sending "The Wizard"
Luis sending "The Wizard"
Eric has time to savor the beautiful stone as he c...
Eric has time to savor the beautiful stone as he c...

Comments on The Wizard Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 11, 2008

Easily one of the best routes in the canyon. Don't miss it.
By iancevans
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A beautiful route with two distinct cruxes: one down low and one up high.

This is the second .12 I've redpointed, the other being Sentenced to Hang, which gets a consensus grade of .12b. Obviously, that's not much by way of perspective (though I've done my fair share of hard .11s), but this feels at least as hard as Sentenced to me if not a little a harder. The two cruxes are harder than the crux on Sentenced (both technically and in terms of strength), it's more sustained, and has a couple of very tough clips. Obviously, the two routes are very different in terms of style, but I'm better at Wizard-esque climbing and I still think it's as hard as Sentenced. So I propose hard .12b (definitely the crux move on Milanoma (.12c) is much harder than any move on the Wizard).

I suppose it doesn't matter much what it's graded, but I think these discussions are interesting and I'm always trying to get a better understanding of how people grade things.
By jbak
Mar 30, 2009

ian...I will give you the straight poop...Wizard is 12a (max !) but delicate so it may feel harder if you're not used to that kind of thing. Sentenced is 12a/b so not much difference there. Milanoma is probably NOT 12c...more like b/c. These are minor shadings of difficulty for sure, but you said you were interested so there you go.
By iancevans
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ahh, well if Milanoma is not 12c that makes more sense.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

about the grade: after climbing 3 other 12a's and one 12b i think this route is solid 12a and a good gauge to judge other routes of the grade in the tucson area.

i hereby decree that henceforth all routes that aspire unto the grade of 12a in the great land of Tucson shalt be compared beside The Mighty Wizard. all climbs that are slightly easier than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 11d; all climbs that are slightly harder than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12b; and all climbs that are roughly equal in difficulty unto The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12a. i have spoken.
By iancevans
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12a is right. I get it now. I wouldn't use it as the Lemmon standard for the grade, though, because the style is fairly unique.

I'm inclined to think Milanoma is 12c, though. Have to go do Right Tissue and see.
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Apr 12, 2011

@ Jon Ruland: your comment made my day!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Very good and sustained technical climbing! I thought the grade leaned a bit closer to 12b but maybe I'm getting soft living in Colorado... probably. Either way, the sustained nature of the route (save for the last 15 feet) really make this a classic.
By Nick Henscheid
4 days ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

So good! Great combination of technique and power. If you can work the feet out and milk the two good rests it becomes a very "accessible" 12a.