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The Witch, The Cauldrons and The Warlock are nestled in a cirque on the southern edge of Hell Roaring Canyon about three miles from the Green River. Named by Ron Olevsky who made the first ascent on Halloween, this 300 foot tower offers a fine outing on mostly solid rock and boasts an excellent second pitch up a beautiful, stemming corner. At least one other route has been done on the Witch though information on that route remains elusive. When you climb here, think about how remote it would feel if it was the mid 80s and you were alone and had approached from the Green River as was the case on the first ascent.
Although these formations were originally approached from the Green River via an old Uranium prospectors road that explored Hell Roaring Canyon, these towers are best approached by rappelling in from the rim. See Hell Roaring Canyon page for specific directions.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Witch:
Midnight Rider 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For The Witch
Midnight Rider 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : The Witch
This is a good route on a fun tower in an really beautiful setting. All four pitches are engaging. The crux is hard and spooky but can be aided. Pitch One – Climb the obvious crack up a shallow right facing corner to a few moves on dubious rock through a horizontal band and a two piton anchor. 5.10Pitch Two – Ascend the beautiful corner above the belay. 5.11 RPitch Three – Climb past a couple angles to a corner and then make some awkward moves left under a large flake. The RC Utah book says to...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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