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Super Crack Tower
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A Marriage Reality T 
Consumation Crack  T 
Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 
Happy Ending S 
Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 
Hotdog in a Hallway T 
Inception T 
North Face Route T 
Pre-Marital Sex T 
Runaway Groom T 
Shotgun Wedding T 
Tofurkey T 
Turkish Bride T 
Turkish Delight T 
Walk the Plank T 
Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 
Window of Opportunity T 
Windows Route, The T 
X-tra Marital Sex T 

The Windows Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Jake D, Kole D & Amy L, 3/08 FFA: Mark G & Mike K, 5/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 10,637
Submitted By: Mike on May 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Mike on the FA of the wild 2nd pitch!

Description 

A great route on a great tower with stunning scenery and no crowds.

The climb starts up a face about 15' left (up-gully) of the left side of the obvious corner/gully on the North Face. From Turkish Bride, walk up and left up "The Bowling Alley" to just past the big corner system shown on the Turkish Bride topo.

P1: Walk up the gully (left) for about 15', then traverse right to the first bolt. You can see the bolt from the ground, but not from the start of the traverse. Continue up some funky face moves past a couple more bolts to a limestone band. Then traverse a few moves right to a 2-bolt anchor at the base of the first window. (5.10a)

P2: Stem and bridge up the beautiful chimney past 2 bolts and a small cam placement to a roof crack. Jam the crack out of the chimney (west) and pull up into an excellent dihedral. Follow dihedral to the second window and another 2 bolt anchor. A stellar pitch with great moves! (5.10b/c)

P3: Another good pitch! Continue up the nice dihedral as it starts to get wider; bring some big gear for this pitch. Towards the top the crack gets steeper and wider, but a convenient chockstone and a rail on each side make this easier than it looks. After grunting though the last bulge, finish up a short ramp to the notch, then scramble up the face to the summit and a 2-bolt anchor. (5.10b)

Rap the route to descend. We used a single 70m rope, but a 60m would PROBABLY work.

Protection 

A standard Sedona rack, plus a bigger piece or 2 for the third pitch.


Photos of The Windows Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving out of the chimney and getting ready to swi...
Moving out of the chimney and getting ready to swi...
Rock Climbing Photo: up and out the window!
up and out the window!
Rock Climbing Photo: Brendalicious on the 2nd pitch of The Windows Rout...
Brendalicious on the 2nd pitch of The Windows Rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up @ JR thru the lower window
looking up @ JR thru the lower window
Rock Climbing Photo: Mei Ling stretching out on The Windows Route.  Con...
Mei Ling stretching out on The Windows Route. Con...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mei Ling transitions from chimney to corner on the...
Mei Ling transitions from chimney to corner on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Meghan on the last pitch
Meghan on the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: second pitch
second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch
Second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Supercrack Tower.  The Windows Route is on the lef...
BETA PHOTO: Supercrack Tower. The Windows Route is on the lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: coming out of the roof on the second pitch
coming out of the roof on the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st Pitch
1st Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric starting pitch 3
Eric starting pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric on the first pitch
Eric on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: room with a view
room with a view
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric on the last pitch
Eric on the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: coming down
coming down
Rock Climbing Photo: Mei Ling starting to move out of the chimney on Th...
Mei Ling starting to move out of the chimney on Th...

Comments on The Windows Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 21, 2016
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

a future classic! I recommend doubles to #4 Camalot. P1 is 5.10uous, P2 is 5.10 wild! P3 is 5.10 strenuous but not technically challenging.
By CTK
From: Scottsdale
May 30, 2008

Super Sweet M & M!
By Jake Dayley
Nov 12, 2008

Some corrections: The Window Route 5.10
FA: Jake Dayley, Mark G, Mike K, Amy Lyons. 3/08.

All Pitches are roughly 5.10.
The second is one of the best in Sedona.
Two more bolts will be added to the first pitch to better protect falls in the future.
By Tim Sinson
Nov 22, 2008

Pitch 1

Not for the faint of heart. I say 5.10-Dish.


Pitch 2




The glory pitch.

Fun. Easier than it looks. 5.10 b

Pitch 3

5.10 c.

This was a very fun day.

By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

First pitch is fun except for some rock peeling off. Second pitch was perfect. Third was good but a grunt. I don't recall any chockstones or rails within the offwidth...and even double checked on rappel.

GREAT route!
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

What an awesome, diverse, and physical climb!

With a 70m rope, we just barely made it down to the lower window (top of P1) from the top chains.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yes very awesome. Doubles of #4 were quite helpful on p.3, #5 pretty much unneccesary. Pitch 1 isn't terribly hard and is pretty well protected, just very funky and a little sandy.

Also, be very careful linking p2&3 rappel with one 70m. Supposedly mammut makes their rope 5% longer than the stated length, and roman and I made it by about 1ft.
By Dean Hoffman
Sep 13, 2010

Fantastic route! Found pitch one to be pretty lame, the price of admission I guess. We climbed this just to have the true experience and stay in the shade, but would probably recomend the Walk the Plank pitch or the Hotdog in a Hallway. That being said the rest of the route is amazing! Soooo fun. Second pitch is sweet and fourth pitch is true Sedona style. Don't dump one of your 4's right off the belay. I did and ended up with some pretty heady runouts!

Gear nothing smaller than .3 and doubles only from .75 up. Probably won't use all of it but you'll still be psyched. Only need the 4's for the last pitch. Definitely classic!
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Jan 10, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

can rap the north side 3x with 1 60M - be carefull pulling ropes on final North side rap; or rap once south side from Marriage Reality anchors to base of Shotgun Wedding with 1 70M.
By Dirty Puddle
Feb 14, 2011

All can say is wow and i almost shit my pants when i climbed this thing a 2 years back. Great route =).
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 14, 2011

Anyone know the general aspect of this route (sun/shade and time to expect either)?

Thanks
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2011

Approach:
Take Wilson Trail to the sign that says "End of Trail".
Continue walking in the Wilson Wash for 5-10 minutes.
Locate a climbers trail (or bushwack) up and right of the wash, in a small gully to the east side (left side) of SuperCrack tower to the base of The Windows Route.
By Sean C
From: SLC
Jun 1, 2012

Possibly lost a black folding knife on this route. If anyone finds it I would greatly appreciate it back in return for some brews. Thanks
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route.

Chockstone is definitely gone and the 3rd pitch felt harder than the second. Had one #4 and one #5, wish I had two of each.
By Neil Kauffman
May 31, 2013

A minimal but sufficient rack...
singles BD Camalots .5-#4, #3 optional
If you want to beef it up...
2x .75, #1
STELLAR!
By Josh Tokioka
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 30, 2014

When starting the climb, after one has climbed up the bowling alley, do not be deceived by a silver bolt about 10 feet down from the top of the bowling alley. It leads up slabby nothingness. You want to traverse on a slopey ledge about 20 ft till you find a brown camoed bolt.

Does anyone know what the silver bolt is for? I thought perhaps it was for the belayer to clip into, or to place a first draw, but its rather high up for that. Is it possibly another climb?
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Dec 1, 2014

Josh Tokioka that sounds like the start to Extra-marital Sex.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 6, 2015

This must be one of the most photogenic climbs ever. A climb to be drooled over, even at 15 degrees below zero during a nasty Maine winter morning. I think I'll head on over to Expedia... ;-)
By jthmmdom
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really cool summit! I ended up going up the opposite side of the second pitch and lost a .4 in there. It was definitely an epic getting up the wrong side. I even had to crawl through that window to get to the chains. The off width up top wasn't too bad as long as you have wide gear.
By tina yaw
Feb 21, 2016

The stem box is much more difficult if you are short. I am 5'3 and could not move up by stemming at the widest parts. Epic pitch.

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