The Window (Free)  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 130 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  FFA: Sean Nelb, July 10, 2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Sean Nelb on Jul 19, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The FFA of the first pitch of the Window

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The classic, seldom-repeated Royal Robbins aid line has gone free at last! Or at least the first pitch has. The Window features stemming, tip-jams, and face climbing on one of the most impressive features of the Tower. Follow a thinning crack in a dihedral, getting progressively harder after 50 ft. Bolted anchors can be found next to a broken area on the face.

The remaining route is still an aid line. The thin crack continues and more face holds open up before anchors can be found under the imposing, difficult, A4 overhang that looms above. Come free it!

Location 

On the left side of the roofs that make up the Window formation on the Tower, climb the right side of a distinct, orange-colored column. Three cracks right of Animal Cracker Land.

Protection 

Thin. Small wires to #1 camalot. Optional #3 or #4 camalot for the start. Remaining pitches unknown. One 70 meter rope will get you down with a little 3rd class to the ledge.