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Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 

The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Keith Becconsall 9/99
Page Views: 1,710
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Haley's first redpoint

Description 

Another classic beginner route with fun moves and a cool line. The name is a plays on the classic Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Cannon Cliff. Though not as exposed, it does bare a slight resemblance to that route.

Follow the ridge from the mouth of the gully up and to the left to quick clip anchors. A new route has been added directly up to share the same anchor, if you top rope here please use draws so as not to wear out the quick clips. Also, due to the sharply angling nature of the route, it is best to clean the draws by seconding.


Location 

The wall on the right as you walk up in to the gully, you will see the bolts following the ridge up and right.


Protection 

8 bolts to quick clips. As Ward Smith wrote in his guidebook "Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."



Photos of The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
Allie having fun!
Allie having fun!
Good ol' fashioned fun. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Good ol' fashioned fun. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Timmy starting from the pit. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Timmy starting from the pit. Photo by Alyson Sewel...
Joe leading Whimpy-Gilman Ridge
Joe leading Whimpy-Gilman Ridge
Heading up this fun route. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Heading up this fun route. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Chalking up. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Chalking up. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Looking straight at Constipation Prize
Looking straight at Constipation Prize
Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
Tim fighting the sun. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Tim fighting the sun. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Climbing up Whimpy
Climbing up Whimpy
Tim doing some funky/fun beta on this easy climb. Photo by Alyson Sewell.
Tim doing some funky/fun beta on this easy climb. ...
Joe clipping on the Whimpy Gilman Ridge
Joe clipping on the Whimpy Gilman Ridge
Comments on The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge Add Comment
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 19, 2007

I didn't know it was possible to have a three star 5.3 sport route.

Bravo? I think? hahaha

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 20, 2007

Most of the moderate sport routes at Rumney are really quite fun...

By Haley January
Aug 20, 2007

Definitely deserves the 3 stars! Very fun route, and great place to practice leading for us top ropers looking to gain experience.

By J Meagher
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Super fun easy climbing with great handholds all the way up. Probably the best route I have ever done under 5.7. Perfect for novice leaders, because at every bolt, there is a jug on the arete to clip from. Also, the fact that it shares an anchor with a 5.7 gives beginners a chance to get on something relatively hard without having to lead it. Definently worth doing.

By flynn
Dec 22, 2013

Looks steep for the grade; real climbing, then, instead of high-angle stumbling. Cool!