The Willowwacks Crack  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  ??? Submitted By:  Ben F. on Jul 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Willowwacks Crack follows the crack to the lef...

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Description 

Climbs the hand/finger crack in the center of the wall. Crux comes right off the deck with thin and brittle face climbing with no good gear placements until about 1/3 up the route. Eases up about halfway.

Location 

The Willowwacks Wall is one of the more isolated out of the quartzite formations, situated a couple hundred meters north past the Lunchboxes, and a couple hundred meters southwest of the Lunch Bucket Ledge turnoff. It can be seen from the parking lot and can be seen by looking directly north from the top of The Big Bobino. Although not all that lengthy, the approach is pretty unpleasant no matter what, so the best way is to just walk directly from the parking lot and try to find the path of least foliage. The start of the route can be reached by climbing the first pitch of the Hassle Hoffwidth, or making a sketchy scramble up the south gully.

Protection 

Standard rack, mostly small/medium gear. Long webbing for a tree branch belay. Bring bail gear to rappel off.

No gear for the first part of the route, and very little for your belayer to anchor to. A digger off the deck could result in a 20 ft fall into the gully below for both of you. A decent top rope can be rigged from the top of the Hassle Hoffwidth.