The Will To Power  5.11c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Andrew Barry, Mike Artz, and Stanley Todd Submitted By:  jgallagher on Sep 14, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The first section of this climb is a very fun, well protected corner. Stems, laybacks, and the occasional use of the arete on the right will get you to the top of the corner. Clip a bolt and pull up and left (first crux) to a weird rest stance. From here commit to a relatively large runout on 5.10- climbing just left of the arete. At the top of the runout there is a jug to place bomber gear from. Then move up and left past big moves (second crux) to a hidden letter box slot. Plug a final piece of gear and make a couple more large moves between good holds and you will be at the anchor.

Location 

Located a few hundred feet around the corner to the right of burning calves. Its the route just left of Chorus line

Protection 

The opening corner takes small stoppers really well. Before the runout there is a 1/2" bolt. After the runout a .75 camalot is totally bomber but there is plenty of other stuff available. Make sure you save a yellow tcu or equivalent for the final letter box slot. It is very crucial