The first section of this climb is a very fun, well protected corner. Stems, laybacks, and the occasional use of the arete on the right will get you to the top of the corner. Clip a bolt and pull up and left (first crux) to a weird rest stance. From here commit to a relatively large runout on 5.10- climbing just left of the arete. At the top of the runout there is a jug to place bomber gear from. Then move up and left past big moves (second crux) to a hidden letter box slot. Plug a final piece of gear and make a couple more large moves between good holds and you will be at the anchor.
Located a few hundred feet around the corner to the right of burning calves. Its the route just left of Chorus line
The opening corner takes small stoppers really well. Before the runout there is a 1/2" bolt. After the runout a .75 camalot is totally bomber but there is plenty of other stuff available. Make sure you save a yellow tcu or equivalent for the final letter box slot. It is very crucial
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
This is one of the best routes I've ever been on. The Runout isn't that bad, and you get bomber gear after. Some people say there is hidden gear but you don't really need it. Take a .75 and either a yellow or orange TCU for the gear after the runout, then climb another 12 feet or so to the chains. EXCELLENT!