The Wicked Crag Rock Climbing
Working through the first crux [on Tiki Man].
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This crag is one of the most developed and aesthetic crags in all of Mill Creek Canyon - a beautiful, overhanging streaked wall that holds a variety of difficult routes.
The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).
There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!
The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.
The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.
There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.
I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.
Moab Desert Adventures provides a nice map - get it off their web site.You can park right at the trailhead if you can get off to the side of the road. Or down closer to the bridge if their is no room.Look for a trail (currently marked with a cairn) a couple hundred yards up the LaSal loop road from the Mill Creek bridge.
Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.
Climbing Season For the Mill Creek area.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Wicked Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Wicked Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Wicked Crag:
Bow Tie 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Inferno 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
The Sinister 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Scavenger 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The Buzzcut 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Bowsprit 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Tiki Man 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Wicked Crag
Flaming Groovy 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b UT
: Moab Area
: ... : The Wicked Crag
This line is beautiful, steep, and probably the best protected route in all of Mill Creek Canyon. The bolts are only 5-6 feet apart - a rarity in Mill Creek. Flaming Groovy climbs up the center of the big overhanging wave that forms the left side of the Wicked Crag.The line is flanked on either side by 13s, and often has in-situ draws on it. It runs up the obvious weakness in the center of the wave. Starts pretty easy then starts to get steep and increasingly burly.Hits a puzzling crux around t...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Oct 23, 2007
I found the best way to get there was from the La Sal loop road south of town, off of HWY 191. Follow this until you reach a sharp hairpin turn (about 15 miles) with a cattle guard. Go 0.4 miles from the gate and look for wooden road reinforcements on the right. (If you reach the bridge, you've gone too far) The trail starts on the left of the road just opposite the road reinforcements (by a large pine tree). As you are hiking, take the left fork to get to the wicked crag. When you get to another fork, the right one goes to the "dog trail" (no ladder) and the left goes to the ladder descent.
This link shows the approximate location right where the map says La Sal Mountain Loop Rd in between Wilson Mesa Rd: tinyurl.com/climbmillcreek
By Nolan Robertson
May 24, 2013
I am curious if anyone knows about the line between Techno Christ and Ferns have feelings, it looks somewhat abandoned.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 25, 2013
It's new. Probably just a little dirty from winter runoff.