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The Wicked Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleeding, The S 
Bow Tie S 
Bowsprit S 
Buzzcut, The S 
Crush the Skull S 
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 
Flaming Groovy S 
Jolly Roger S 
Scavenger S 
Sinister, The S 
Techno Christ S 
Tiki Man S 

The Wicked Crag 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 20, 2004
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Working through the first crux [on Tiki Man].

Description 

This crag is one of the most developed and aesthetic crags in all of Mill Creek Canyon - a beautiful, overhanging streaked wall that holds a variety of difficult routes.

The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).

There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!

The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.

The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.

There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.

I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.


Getting There 

Moab Desert Adventures provides a nice map - get it off their web site.You can park right at the trailhead if you can get off to the side of the road. Or down closer to the bridge if their is no room.Look for a trail (currently marked with a cairn) a couple hundred yards up the LaSal loop road from the Mill Creek bridge.

Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.


Climbing Season


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',6],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wicked Crag:
Bow Tie   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ferns Have Feelings Too   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 65'   
Flaming Groovy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
The Sinister   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Techno Christ   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Scavenger   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Crush the Skull   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Buzzcut   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bowsprit   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Tiki Man   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Wicked Crag

Featured Route For The Wicked Crag
Easier climbing once you've made it this far.

The Buzzcut 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Wicked Crag
Steep and big holds, a rarity for Mill Creek.. A little spicy at the end, not a rarity for Mill Creek. Do the first 5 bolts of The Bleeding then traverse left and around corner to finish on Sinister clipping the optional bolt back around the corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for The Wicked Crag
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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Oct 23, 2007

I found the best way to get there was from the La Sal loop road south of town, off of HWY 191. Follow this until you reach a sharp hairpin turn (about 15 miles) with a cattle guard. Go 0.4 miles from the gate and look for wooden road reinforcements on the right. (If you reach the bridge, you've gone too far) The trail starts on the left of the road just opposite the road reinforcements (by a large pine tree). As you are hiking, take the left fork to get to the wicked crag. When you get to another fork, the right one goes to the "dog trail" (no ladder) and the left goes to the ladder descent.

This link shows the approximate location right where the map says La Sal Mountain Loop Rd in between Wilson Mesa Rd: tinyurl.com/climbmillcreek

By Nolan Robertson
May 24, 2013

I am curious if anyone knows about the line between Techno Christ and Ferns have feelings, it looks somewhat abandoned.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 25, 2013

It's new. Probably just a little dirty from winter runoff.