|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Bradley White, FFA Jim Shimberg 1st pitch, 1988 FFA Scott Stevens 1989?|
|Submitted By:||bradley white on Jun 23, 2009|
|Comments on The White Iceberg||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Malden, MA
Aug 20, 2014
It's unfortunate that this route doesn't get the attention it deserves. I can only speak for the 1st pitch....but the granite is perfect and the climbing is incredible.
I'd be in favor of, (and possibly willing to), update the hardware on the 1st pitch however. Replacing those old pins with bolts seems like a good idea....updating the old bolts makes sense to. Maybe that would get more traffic on this gem?
By bradley white
Aug 21, 2014
|I always appreciate positive comments. take out and keep the pins and Retro bolt the whole thing and get rid of last belay and go up to base of Moon shadow belay. A much better stance. The first pitch is a warm up pitch for the second pitch. saw route potential rappelling down vertigo and by end of summer route was finished. I drilled first pitch rope solo and Jim bolted second and final pitch rope solo I believe. Then we did it together in the fall. rappelling Vertigo would be a good way to retro bolt second pitch but probably not all of it. Moon shadow belay is a direct access to the upper half of top two pitches. It'll be a bitch but moon shadow is very good climb. a long day you can climb and retro bolt route. Going to be a very long day with a hand drill. do you have a camera? a picture of route would be nice.|