|4. Moby Grape Area
I started to set the climb up for climbing by myself by doing the beginning roped soloed because near to the start of it there was necessity to placing 2 bolts to get past a practically too smooth to climb ramp. I invited Anders Kressy to climb it with me. I led the first pitch using the bolts for aid (A-0) and then went through the easy arch via a horizontal finger crack. Over the arch a little higher up was the exit rappel station to Vertigo where I belayed Anders up too. We rappelled.
Shortly after that I told Jim Shimberg about the climb and invited him to bolt the second pitch if he wanted to? Jim went for it rope solo I believe and did a magnificent bolting of the climb above Vertigo’s rappel station for 2 pitches. Bravo Jim.
Soon after that Jim had put the bolts in he invited me too do the climb with him. I led it all at 5-11d(A-0). The next summer it was free climbed by Scott Stevenson at (5-12) past the first pitch bolts. The third pitch is (5-8) ramps bolted and cracks trad gear to the base of Moon Shadow.
Right of Vertigo section and left of North Southwest, look for the large arch 50ft up.
Many old bolts, Trad. gear mostly stoppers. Rappel station below Moon Shadow.
From: Malden, MA
Aug 20, 2014
It's unfortunate that this route doesn't get the attention it deserves. I can only speak for the 1st pitch....but the granite is perfect and the climbing is incredible.
I'd be in favor of, (and possibly willing to), update the hardware on the 1st pitch however. Replacing those old pins with bolts seems like a good idea....updating the old bolts makes sense to. Maybe that would get more traffic on this gem?
|By bradley white|
Aug 21, 2014
I always appreciate positive comments. take out and keep the pins and Retro bolt the whole thing and get rid of last belay and go up to base of Moon shadow belay. A much better stance. The first pitch is a warm up pitch for the second pitch. saw route potential rappelling down vertigo and by end of summer route was finished. I drilled first pitch rope solo and Jim bolted second and final pitch rope solo I believe. Then we did it together in the fall. rappelling Vertigo would be a good way to retro bolt second pitch but probably not all of it. Moon shadow belay is a direct access to the upper half of top two pitches. It'll be a bitch but moon shadow is very good climb. a long day you can climb and retro bolt route. Going to be a very long day with a hand drill. do you have a camera? a picture of route would be nice.