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The Whale's Tail

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Amputee Love T 
Buffoon T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

The Whale's Tail Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9312, -105.283 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,208
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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35°
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Tuesday

59° | 35°
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Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Many routes exist on this little rock. Some of the easiest slab routes in the canyon and some difficult lines often toproped.

Getting There 

Cross the bridge--it's basically right off the trail to the West next to Redgarden and across from the Bastille.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Whale's Tail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Whale's Tail:
West Crack   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160'   
West Dihedral   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
New Cambria   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
West Face [Whale's Tail]   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jack The Ripper   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
C'est What?   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Free Speech   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
The Monument   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Whale's Tail

Featured Route For The Whale's Tail
Rock Climbing Photo: Matching the left hand next to the right on the ho...

Free Speech 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
FREE SPEECH Climbers on Free Speech, 5.12a. There is a bolting ban on this aspect of The Whale's Tail. Luckily for us sport climbers, Mike Brooks got this one done before the ban. It is everyone's right to whine about slippery river polish. Ha! But really, the quality of the rock is excellent, the holds are comfy-smooth, and the approach is world class easy. A huge stick-clip can be employed to reach the first piece of protection; an ancient ring-angle under the roof. Alternatively, a crash p...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Whale's Tail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Whale's Tail from across the river.
The Whale's Tail from across the river.
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO

Comments on The Whale's Tail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Rutledge
Jan 11, 2002
This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.

I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.

Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes.
By DanMoore
Nov 24, 2003
Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004
I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments?
By Mike Abraham
May 25, 2005
I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are.
By Benjamn P
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2015
LOST GEAR: my girlfriend borrowed my rack & got a cam stuck on 3/15/15. See 'West Crack' for description.

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