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The Whale's Tail

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Amputee Love 
C'est What? 
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Finger Crack 
Free Speech 
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Kid's Climb 
Left Arete 
M 
Martindale 
Monument, The 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 
New Cambria 
No Problem 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof 
Spoof Roof 
West Crack 
West Dihedral 
West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

The Whale's Tail 


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Location: 39.9312, -105.283 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,913
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

Many routes exist on this little rock. Some of the easiest slab routes in the canyon and some difficult lines often toproped.


Getting There 

Cross the bridge--it's basically right off the trail to the West next to Redgarden and across from the Bastille.


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Whale's Tail:
West Crack   5.2 3 8 II D 2c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160'   
West Dihedral   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
West Face [Whale's Tail]   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
New Cambria   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jack The Ripper   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
C'est What?   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Free Speech   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Monument   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Whale's Tail

Featured Route For The Whale's Tail
Dan Levison getting the key knee-bar on the Monument.  Photo by Ted Lanzano.

The Monument 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
Feeling burly? Dig slippery cave climbing? This hyper-visible line climbs left to right out of the back of the grotty cave on the south face of the Whale's [Tail], right above the main trail to Redgarden. Either boulder up (slightly heinous) or stick clip the first bolt and continue right on underclings and strange spikes to the lip of the cave. Going left past another bolt to finish yields a fine 13a, while the standard route goes up and slightly right via the crack/layback.While not the pre...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Whale's Tail Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
The Whale's Tail from across the river.
The Whale's Tail from across the river.
Comments on The Whale's Tail Add Comment
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By Matt Rutledge
Jan 11, 2002

This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.

I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.

Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes.

By DanMoore
Nov 24, 2003

Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments?

By Mike Abraham
May 25, 2005

I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are.