Mountain Project: Climbing Eldorado Canyon SP

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Whale's Tail:

West Crack 5.2 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160 feet

West Dihedral 5.4 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

West Face [Whale's Tail] 5.6 X Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Jack The Ripper 5.9+ X Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

C'est What? 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch

Free Speech 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

The Monument 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch

Featured Route For The Whale's Tail

Bob Horan on first free solo ascent of NED, 1985. Photo: Scott Reynolds.

NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 5.12b PG13 CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

Located on the south-facing, west-side of the infamous Whales Tail Cave, this severely overhanging, gymnastc overhang involves a dynamic move to gain the central hold, which is then utilized by using a toe hook, then a swing out to the lip, which is then heel hooked and surmounted via a rolling forward thrust move from out under the lip. This popular route is mostly top roped, rarely lead, and has been free-soloed only once. It has a variety of variations to gain the summit including a strenuous...[more] Browse More Classics in CO

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The Whale's Tail from across the river.

Comments on The Whale's Tail

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By Matt Rutledge
Jan 11, 2002

This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.

I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.

Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes.

By DanMoore
Nov 24, 2003

Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments?

By Mike Abraham
May 25, 2005

I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are.

The Whale's Tail

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