The Wet Kiss 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | David Rubine and Kelly Rich, 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 12, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the bolts to the top anchor, which you cann...
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This face route heads up a less than vertical section about 50 feet right of Portant (5.6) that faces the same direction of Portent.
Climb up to the bolted wide cracklike system that starts about 20 feet up from the path, and it's a simple slab walk up to the first bolt. For an added move, boulder over the first bulge on the way to the first bolt (still a 5.9.)
After the first bolt, use the crack to move over a short vertical section, and then follow the bolts up the crack system to a mantle move at the fourth bolt. Continue upwards, where climbing is easier to the top anchors, which are obscured from view from the ground.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A small piece of pro can be added to the crack crux, which is after the first bolt.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 5, 2006
| The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall.
This is not a bolted crack.
Bruce |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 5, 2006
| I've led Wet Kiss probably a half dozen times. Personally, I find that trying to fiddle in gear between the first and second bolts is more effort than it's worth. You make the crux move with a bolt at your waist. |
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 5, 2006
| I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.
Bruce |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 5, 2006
| I agree, Bruce, it's definitely not a bolted crack, despite the appearance in the photo above. The bolts are thoughtfully placed. |
By Jeff Dopp
From: Goodlettsville, TN
Jan 27, 2008
| Bolted Crack!! In my humble opinion using trad gear in any crack at the Pinns is at best adventuresome...at worst silly, and this comes from someone who has watched more than a few stoppers spinning down the rope at me while dropping onto the last bolt. If there is any area where bolts next cracks is nice...this is it! |
By rafael
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 PG13
| I am normally anti bolting cracks, but pro is not to be trusted in pinnacles rock. Even holds are suspect. |
By Keith Forest
Mar 23, 2013
| Try leading it without using the bolts. |
By Johnny Y
From: California
Mar 25, 2013
| The first bolt seems too high for short people, I could not reach it at all on a good stance, had to make half a move and clip the bolt while in an awkward position. Better to put in a small metolius down low and just don't bother with the 1st bolt. |
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