This area holds a number of moderate face and friction climbs, and even a couple of cracks. The rock is excellent quality and full of features and variety. It requires the longest approach of the Ironclads.
This area has clearly seen substantial development, but there appear to be no records of these routes, other than a few references in other posts. This area is placed here in the hopes of stimulating some more information, preferably by those first ascensionists that placed all of the bolts. Please contact me with info, and I'll update all of the details.
The routes are described from the right to left, since this is how you encounter the routes. Slab 1 is the farthest right "section" of rock and the first that is reached on the approach. Slab 2 is the broadest section of rock.
A? Bear Mountain Picnic, 7+, 2p, 250', gear.
N1. Tangled Up In Blue, 7+, 2p, bolts & gear.
N2. P2 variation, ~10, bolts.
? No Consensus, 2p.
? South Arete, 7, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.
From the saddle by the nose, continue downhill, as if you're heading to Ironsides, but keep going downhill to the west. There is a faint trail that wraps around to the right, or north, and then back uphill leading to the slabs. It is about another 10 minutes past Ironsides.
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Dylan Wall
Bear Mountain Slab 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Dylan Wall
This is the obvious bolted line on Slab 1.P1: Scramble up a short gully to a small ledge, and head straight up to a bolt, or begin climbing a crack and dihedral to the right. Continue straight up, placing some natural gear or clipping some bolts to the belay/rap station. This is a different set of anchors from the South Arete. 5.6P2: Climb up and to the right, into a series of steeper overlapping slabs (crux). Climb through these, placing protection and occasionally clipping a b...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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The first slab.
BETA PHOTO: Area showing the Ironsides, West Slabs, and routes...
The right-hand side of the central slab.
Looking across the West Slabs from the top of the ...
Here is our original route photo of the Dylan Wall...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 7, 2013
Bill, I wonder if this crag is the same as that mentioned on the Ironsides page with a R->L:
Across the valley to the west:
The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
unknown arete, 10, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.
Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts.
|By Bill Duncan|
From: Jamestown, CO
Jul 9, 2013
Hi Leo, Thanks to the link of the arete (Photo), I'm fairly certain Michael was referring to another group of routes on a medium-sized monolith shown in Photo. The ratings also seem to support this, as the routes on what I'm calling the West Slabs are very moderate in comparison. I'll get some better photos of the slabs. Of course, the FA team may have a name for this area, and I'm happy to change this temporary label whenever they communicate their info.
|By Matt Quinn|
Mar 3, 2014
The one farthest to the right at the end of the ramp is, 2. "Tangled Up in Blue". It is two pitched, bolts and gear. The first pitch 5.6 NC, No Consensus, rap anchors at the top. The second pitch is maybe 5.7+ NC, rap anchors at the top. FA Tom Kohlmann/Matt Quinn. There is a 2nd pitch variation on this route that proceeds up a vertical wall right. It is in the 5.10 range, NC. Follow the bolts up and to an arete (crux) to anchors it shares with a separate climb we named "Boltergeist", Climb no. 1 which starts 100 feet southwesterly in a small canyon. The variation of route no. 2 was put up by Dan Hare/Rich Perch who did the first ascent.
The one on the ramp to just left of Route "2" is, 3. "Bear Mountain Picnic". It is two pitch with rap anchors. It may be 5.7+, NC. FA Eric Zschiesche/Donna Quinn. A note of caution---it has been a while since I have climb these climbs so I do not know their present condition as to bolts/anchors, etc. The routes are bolts and gear. We used 70 meter ropes. Matt Quinn