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West Chimney, The 

The West Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Peter Gabriel
Page Views: 3,888
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Ernie Hansche (my dad) finishing the awesome secon...


Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear...

Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...

Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...

Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...

Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...

The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...



As you approach the eaglet this route starts on the left from a dirt ledge... You will see pins in a cracked face above...


Standard rack... Double ropes needed to get back to the ground in a single rappel...

Photos of The West Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
my dad heading through the vegitated area on the first pitch...
my dad heading through the vegitated area on the f...
end of pitch 2 looking south through the notch <br />
end of pitch 2 looking south through the notch
here I'm leading the variation to the 3rd pitch... highly recommended...
here I'm leading the variation to the 3rd pitch......
Larry Boehmler right after the crux of the West Chimney route.
Larry Boehmler right after the crux of the West Ch...
the line of The West Chimney route...
BETA PHOTO: the line of The West Chimney route...
Climber on the Eaglet.
Climber on the Eaglet.
Comments on The West Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2012
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 8, 2011

Any comment on how good the protection is on this climb? Looks like a lot of fun.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2011

The gear is great! get after it!

By Barrett Stetson
Sep 8, 2011

Awesome, think that's my Saturday plan :). Did you do any of the 5.8's over there (e.g. Route 66 or Salted Packed Pig Sack)? Wondering if either of those are good protected routes to try too if there is time.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2011

i did salt pack... pretty well protected with small cams and nuts between the bolts but not a straight forward line, gear options are hard to see in places, and there is some loose rock, one very large flake the felt like it wanted to come off...

By Barrett Stetson
Sep 14, 2011

Definitely a fun route and the gear was good. I thought the second pitch might have been a tad harder than the first, but still about 5.7. Ran into a little rope drag on second pitch.

By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 29, 2011

Another really good variation goes right at the top of pitch 2 for 60 ft. to the middle of the Long Wall and a belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a tiny ledge. Climb straight up a crack (5.7) to the beautiful, featured face above and keep going to another 2 bolt anchor at the top of the wall, passing a couple of bolts along the way. I put in the anchors and bolts in the mid 90's. Makes for a really nice extra pitch finish to a climb of the Eaglet.

By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 30, 2011

Sorry, I meant go left, not right, at the saddle at the top of P2.

By burlap submariner
Nov 6, 2011

the best summit for the grade in NH.

By Joey Croft
From: Lyndonville, Vt
May 20, 2012

awesome climb, just did it today. be warned while pulling the last move to the pitch 2 belay. there is a very large loose rock directly above and touching the right face!

By Brian M. Smith
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Awesome climb. Pay attention to the descent beta. Don't try to double rope rappel from the top of pitch 2. Too much friction. Stuck rope = mini epic. Bring bug spray, lots of water and sunscreen. Very remote.

By Michael Z.
From: Campton, NH
Jul 5, 2012

Yes! Bug spray, I always forget!

By ntableman
Jul 6, 2012

So, there are three clear bolts on the various sides of the spire top portion - 1 on the back and 2 on the arete climb. There are also 2 bolts and 2 rap rings on the top, which was really reassuring to see.

We went up from the belay spot to the bolt on the Westerish side to help protect a 5.7ish move up to the big crack, then we went to the front of the spire and hand traversed across, grabbed the fin/arete along the top and reached over to clip the rap rings.

We sat on top for about an hour, it was so pretty.

Then we rap'ed to the grassy ledge and top roped the crack and arete for fun.

On the way down we backed up the tree rap with another cord to help keep is safe - left it there for the next adventurer!

Oh and the bugs were killer! I dont use bug sray, but if bugs bother you, bring it!