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Wedge Of Delight, The S 
White Dwarf S 

The Wedge Of Delight 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,Ben Morin,'06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The Wedge of Delight (March 2014)

Description 

Getting on to the ledge after the layback is a bit awkward and I think it is the crux.


Location 

Left of the route Red Dwarf. Follow trail left from
The Griddle. Continue left at the cairn another 50 feet. It is the crack around the corner from the left angling crack on the steep red face. If you go right at the cairn it leads to the upper tiers Brown Dwarf and Heliosphere


Protection 

Bolts



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By dcohn
Jan 7, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I broke a few holds off and I know others have too. Someone felt the block at the top of the wedge felt a little hollow so be careful there. I still thought the route was worth doing and had some fun moves.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 9, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Between 2nd and 3rd bolt, taller climbers can clip from below the flake if the draw is hanging. Shorter or no draw = you have to get right up to the 3rd bolt. Juggy but I wouldn't want to fall right there.