Several routes are already recorded on this large expanse of walls and spires. The descriptions and location of these climbs are in the Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell Desert Rock Guide by Eric Bjornstad. Two new spires by three separate routes have been climbed. The rock is mostly of high quality, a type of white Wingate.
From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles south. Turn west(right) on Oil Well Flat Road over a cattle guard. Continue one mile to a Y junction, keep left, and drive 6/10ths mile to road on left. Continue 1.8miles to end of road and camp site for Weasel or the Pinnacle.There is a trail of sorts up the Talis to the right ,best for Pinnacle routes and a shorter but a little more complicated up the talis slope over to the left , at the top of the talus ridge walk right to a couple of slab moves then left to the Weasel climbs Hike up the right talus to the base of the rock and turn right(East) to the Belfy and Sodizin Towers.Left to The Rooster , Worse the heat and routes on the Weasel.
Browse More Classics in The Weasel Formation
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Weasel Formation:
Horus Tower 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III
Ozymandias 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 440 feet, Grade IV
The Rooster 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Little Weasel Spire 5.9 C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry 5.9 C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 310 feet, Grade III
Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. 5.9 C1 Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 360 feet, Grade III
Live Free or Die Tower 5.9 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Devastator Tower 5.9+ Trad, 80 feet, Grade IV
The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer 5.10 C2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For The Weasel Formation
Live Free or Die Tower 5.9 C2 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : The Weasel Formation
The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT