Several routes are already recorded on this large expanse of walls and spires. The descriptions and location of these climbs are in the Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell Desert Rock Guide by Eric Bjornstad. Two new spires by three separate routes have been climbed. The rock is mostly of high quality, a type of white Wingate.
From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles south. Turn west(right) on Oil Well Flat Road over a cattle guard. Continue one mile to a Y junction, keep left, and drive 6/10ths mile to road on left. Continue 1.8miles to end of road and camp site for Weasel or the Pinnacle.There is a trail of sorts up the Talis to the right ,best for Pinnacle routes and a shorter but a little more complicated up the talis slope over to the left , at the top of the talus ridge walk right to a couple of slab moves then left to the Weasel climbs Hike up the right talus to the base of the rock and turn right(East) to the Belfy and Sodizin Towers.Left to The Rooster , Worse the heat and routes on the Weasel.
The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall. P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Note the the above discription taken from the guide Desert Rock III to The Weasel, Breezway , Pinnacle is INCORRECT. Should be.... From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles(NOT 2.2)south to road on the right (west) and cattle guard. Go 1 mile take right hand road. Go 6/10 of a mile take left road. Continue 1.8 miles to camp site at end of road . Path up talus to the right.
There is a way to get to the top without gear/ropes, all it requires is a couple hours and a lot of scrambling. scramble up the best looking talus field(south side), once you reach the wall turn right and walk around the entire wall until you get to the north face. from here the sandstone ramps up to the top. there are 2 sections of 4th class, but there are bomber handholds and anyone who pumps oxygen to all the parts of their body should be able to make it up(we took a puppy up and he did fine). once you get to the top enjoy the view and look for a jar with a list of all the mofo's who've been to the top.
Has anyone ever freed the original route on The Weasel...Weasel On The Run? Seth Shaw gave it a pretty good run for its money...he thought the route would become a classic free climb, but doesn't sound like it gets much attention anymore? The hand crack on that route is as good as it gets.
Is the summit register still on top of the Weasel? We placed a Wall/route register also on The Pinnacle (very close to the top down on the south side)....is that still there? Any other traffic other than PR parties?
Hi. Have not been on that Northern summit of the Weasel where I assume your register will be located.The only repeat of climbs I know of in this area is of the Belfry Tower via Brits in the Belfry route.