Know the location of this area? Show us! We don't know it, but we're working on cool new features that need it!
Several routes are already recorded on this large expanse of walls and spires. The descriptions and location of these climbs are in the Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell Desert Rock Guide by Eric Bjornstad. Two new spires by three separate routes have been climbed. The rock is mostly of high quality, a type of white Wingate.
From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles south. Turn west(right) on Oil Well Flat Road over a cattle guard. Continue one mile to a Y junction, keep left, and drive 6/10ths mile to road on left. Continue 1.8miles to end of road and camp site for Weasel or the Pinnacle.There is a trail of sorts up the Talis to the right ,best for Pinnacle routes and a shorter but a little more complicated up the talis slope over to the left , at the top of the talus ridge walk right to a couple of slab moves then left to the Weasel climbs Hike up the right talus to the base of the rock and turn right(East) to the Belfy and Sodizin Towers.Left to The Rooster , Worse the heat and routes on the Weasel.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Weasel Formation
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Weasel Formation:
Horus Tower 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C1 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240'
The Rooster 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400'
Ozymandias 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 440'
Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 360'
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 310'
Little Weasel Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230'
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Live Free or Die Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400'
Devastator Tower 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 80'
The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b C2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290'
Featured Route For The Weasel Formation
Ozymandias 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C2 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : The Weasel Formation
Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel. It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face. After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult. It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face. P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a groove. Follow to anchors on top of a large flak...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
News and Events For The Weasel Formation