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The Weasel Formation

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Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 
Devastator Tower T 
Horus Tower T 
Little Weasel Spire T 
Live Free or Die Tower T 
Ozymandias T 
Rooster, The T 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

The Weasel Formation  

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Submitted By: Little Chamonix on Nov 9, 2003
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Several routes are already recorded on this large expanse of walls and spires. The descriptions and location of these climbs are in the Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell Desert Rock Guide by Eric Bjornstad. Two new spires by three separate routes have been climbed. The rock is mostly of high quality, a type of white Wingate.

Getting There 

From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles south. Turn west(right) on Oil Well Flat Road over a cattle guard. Continue one mile to a Y junction, keep left, and drive 6/10ths mile to road on left. Continue 1.8miles to end of road and camp site for Weasel or the Pinnacle.There is a trail of sorts up the Talis to the right ,best for Pinnacle routes and a shorter but a little more complicated up the talis slope over to the left , at the top of the talus ridge walk right to a couple of slab moves then left to the Weasel climbs Hike up the right talus to the base of the rock and turn right(East) to the Belfy and Sodizin Towers.Left to The Rooster , Worse the heat and routes on the Weasel.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Weasel Formation:
Horus Tower   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240'   
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 310'   
Devastator Tower   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Weasel Formation

Featured Route For The Weasel Formation
Jim and Paul on the second  pitch

Live Free or Die Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : The Weasel Formation
The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Weasel Formation Slideshow Add Photo
The large formation on the left is The Weasel area...
BETA PHOTO: The large formation on the left is The Weasel area...
Side view of the main  Weasel Tower,the Little Wea...
BETA PHOTO: Side view of the main Weasel Tower,the Little Wea...
A view of the cental crack line of Ozymandias that...
A view of the cental crack line of Ozymandias that...
The Pinnacle Formation . On the left Is the smalle...
BETA PHOTO: The Pinnacle Formation . On the left Is the smalle...

Comments on The Weasel Formation Add Comment
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By Little Chamonix
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 12, 2004
Note the the above discription taken from the guide Desert Rock III to The Weasel, Breezway , Pinnacle is INCORRECT. Should be.... From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles(NOT 2.2)south to road on the right (west) and cattle guard. Go 1 mile take right hand road. Go 6/10 of a mile take left road. Continue 1.8 miles to camp site at end of road . Path up talus to the right.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2005
There is a way to get to the top without gear/ropes, all it requires is a couple hours and a lot of scrambling. scramble up the best looking talus field(south side), once you reach the wall turn right and walk around the entire wall until you get to the north face. from here the sandstone ramps up to the top. there are 2 sections of 4th class, but there are bomber handholds and anyone who pumps oxygen to all the parts of their body should be able to make it up(we took a puppy up and he did fine). once you get to the top enjoy the view and look for a jar with a list of all the mofo's who've been to the top.
By Little Chamonix
From: Cumbria.UK
Feb 17, 2007
In Reply to Anon Coward. May I point out the scramble he/she describes is up The Pinnacle not The Weasel.. Paul Ross
By James Garrett
May 18, 2009
Has anyone ever freed the original route on The Weasel...Weasel On The Run? Seth Shaw gave it a pretty good run for its money...he thought the route would become a classic free climb, but doesn't sound like it gets much attention anymore? The hand crack on that route is as good as it gets.

Is the summit register still on top of the Weasel? We placed a Wall/route register also on The Pinnacle (very close to the top down on the south side)....is that still there? Any other traffic other than PR parties?
By Little Chamonix
From: Cumbria.UK
May 19, 2009
Hi. Have not been on that Northern summit of the Weasel where I assume your register will be located.The only repeat of climbs I know of in this area is of the Belfry Tower via Brits in the Belfry route.
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