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Monkey World
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Wave, The S 

The Wave 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Catherine Stedham & Tom Cecil 12/26/04
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jan 7, 2008

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View from P2

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Wave is the leftmost route on the Monkey World Wall. This is one of the easier multi-pitch routes on the phra-nang peninsula, also the rappelling is straightforward and doesn't require any back clipping.

Pitch 1 5.10a, Shared with "Beauty and the Beast". Negotiate the steep start on huge holds to easier low angle ground ahead. Belay in a nice cave. There are now two anchors side by side. Take the left one, as the right one is for "Beauty..."

Pitch 2 5.10b, Follow the left line of bolts from the belay.

Pitch 3 5.10b, Continue up on better quality and steepening rock.

Pitch 4.5.10c, From the belay traverse left for a short ways then continue up. There is an intermediate belay below the final steep finish. It is easiest to lower back to this comfy belay to belay the second up, then lower them down. This negates the need for any difficult rappelling, and the top belay would be very uncomfortable.

Location 

This route is located on an obvious prow of limestone that starts just a few feet from the path (I think it's a road now). Look for a fixed line running down the hill underneath the power lines. Scramble up a few feet and you're at the mouth of the "bouldering cave." The route starts with a few steep moves right above the cave.

Protection 

Bolts & Rap anchors. Re-bolted Titanium in 2006. Bring around 15 draws. Route can be rappelled with one 60m rope. Can combine P2 and P3.

Mosquito Coils and Bug Spray for the first pitch.


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By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
Sep 4, 2012

Also called 'Big Wave'
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Feb 9, 2014

This route is stupid-popular. The accessible grade, the proximity to most lodging, the ease of descent, and the afternoon shade all come together to make this a route to never count on climbing. Our experience is likely indicative of what you will find on any given day in the high season...

We showed up at 11:30am, hoping that an hour before the route came into the shade would be early enough to cue up first. We were wrong. There was one group of three, and another group of two. The group of three went first. Then the group of two, for whom it was their first multi-pitch ever. At 3:30pm, we were still waiting at the first belay ledge, as a Russian couple came up and got onto Beauty & The Beast. We decided to rap off.