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The Wave 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A0

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A0 [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: brent pohlmann on Aug 5, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start from the anchor atop the first pitch of Mystic Mile. Traverse right and down to a huge, left-facing dihedral. Clip the first bolt, and power up and right via an undercling/lieback. Finish at an anchor shared with Eight Miles High.

I don't claim to world class climber, but compared to the other 10a's at Sleeping Beauty, all of which I had success on, this route seems way harder. My partner regularly climbs hard 11 and had to hang on this thing...I got completely shut down. Has anyone else felt this way? And is there a manufactured hold just underneath the horizontal crack? Has anyone done this using the left-facing dihedral instead the horizontal crack?


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of The Wave Slideshow Add Photo
The Wave.  The anchor at the start is at the end of the first pitch of Mystic Mile.  The anchor at the top is shared with Eight Miles High.  The route climbs an overhanging wall via an undercling lieback; way harder than 10a.
BETA PHOTO: The Wave. The anchor at the start is at the end o...
Sleeping Beauty, Main Wall. <br /> <br />Original photo by Ivan Rezucha.  Modified to show correct location of anchor on Mystic Mile and correct line for The Wave.
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beauty, Main Wall.

Original photo by Iva...
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2004

I was up there about a month ago, and checked out the start of The Wave after doing Mystic Mile. I clipped the first few bolts, got to the overhanging headwall, and couldn't figure out how to move up, so I backed off. The dihedral to the right is also quite difficult; I backed off that as well. This route is much harder than the 10a listed on Rossiter's website. I have a hand-drawn topo that Rossiter did a few years ago, and it shows an A0 move on the headwall. So I think the route is probably 5.10a A0, or perhaps 5.12. It certainly isn't 5.10a.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 10, 2004

I checked this out after doing P1 of Mystic Mile. I was optimistic until I reached up for what looked like the first finger jam, and it sucked. It might be possible to start on the right wall of the corner using an undercling flake. Looks real hard. 11+? Wonder what happened? Rossiter's ratings elsewhere at Sleeping Beauty are more or less accurate or a bit soft. No sandbags. Could a big hold have broken off?