At the parking area, you will notice an obvious gully splitting the cliff. This is just across from Beachball. Just right of this gully is an arete with bolts on the right side. They are painted. This is just Left of Offwidth Workout. This climb is steep and thin, with footwork and sidepulls being key. Bolt 1 is an easy clip, bolt 2 seems to clip easier from the arete or even a little left of it. Bolt 3 on the other hand is a tough clip. Very consistent climbing and enjoyable all the way ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
I've been working on the low traverse since I've started rock climbing. I've "almost" sent it of course. According to some guidebooks it's V9, to merril bitter it's 5.13. The quartzite is of the highest quality in the canyon, however the location is pretty awful. If you were to take a wild fall early on the traverse, you might step back into the road.
A few times fire trucks have honked at me, and subsequently scared the crap out of me. I'm not sure if they're worried about the vicinity, or if they just like to see me jump.
The full traverse is about 55' long, roughly 50 moves to my beta. The first 20 feet is probably 5.10 to a corner, where the hard moves sustain ever increasing difficulty until the crux final 5 feet, of which I've never linked. My main problem is pumping out.
To me, the climb is really 3 sections, the first 15 moves of jugs end in a corner, then the bulk of climbing through a diagonal cack leads to another shallow corner, where a final push on pinches and bad sidepulls reach the arete and end. Have at it!
That crack is a fun climb. I climbed it not 2 days ago. My buddy told me it was a 5.7.... he climbs hard tho so he may have under estimated it.
On the note of this area, we have hung and left and memorial for a very good friend who passed who dearly loved this wall. Please, even though it is very tempting, respect it and don't take the gear it's hung on.
We went out of our way to put it somewhere it wouldn't be a problem. Thanks.