The Watchtower Rock Climbing
Black Magic's view of the crag.
The climbing on The Watchtower
is not the classic pocket pulling that you expect from American Fork Canyon
. It's more technical in nature with edges, crimpers, sidepulls and a few jugs thrown in for good measure.
Fun area with good climbing and little traffic.
This is a great area for fall climbing in American Fork.
See an oblique, aerial view here.
The Watchtower is located 3.4 miles up the canyon. Park and walk 150 yards directly up the hill to the north from the parking area.
Alternatively, instead of heading up the talus slope, there is a small trail just to the east of the large rock formation (known as The Hitcher) just off the road. Head up that trail and take the left hand trail when it splits. You'll have to climb up the last 20 yards of the talus slope.
The first route (Billy Goat's Gruff - .11a) starts at the top of the talus slope and the routes continue to the left.
Climbing Season For the American Fork Canyon area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Watchtower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Watchtower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Watchtower:
Sun King 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fire Woman 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Decades 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Watchtower
Step Right Up 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Watchtower
Start pulling on a right facing flake (don't cheat by going right—use the flake) then clip the 2nd bolt with nice holds. Next, find your way to the only pocket on the climb—3rd bolt.You get a huge rest at bolt 4, then come two beautiful pinchers at the small overhang - clip - then find the sidepull to a sloper to a crimper, reach for a nice right hold using the undercling after that you have easy climbing to the chains.This climb has it all. It's solid 12a and sim...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
the view from the decades alcove, you can see into...
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 5, 2014
In spring (May), goes into the sun around noon. Back in the shade around 5PM.
By Laura T
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 19, 2015
I'm not sure where the 3.4 miles is measuring from, but the parking area is .5 miles past the flagpole. The trail starts by the boulders just up the road from there.