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The Watchtower

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Barnacle S 
Billy Goat's Gruff S 
Decades S 
Domestic Tension S 
Fire Woman S 
Let's Pretend S 
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Step Right Up S 
Sun King S 
To Kill a Chalkingbird S 
Unknown S 
Wasted and Wounded S 

The Watchtower 


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Location: 40.4462, -111.6958 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,725
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: jtwalter on Jun 26, 2006
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Black Magic's view of the crag.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The climbing on The Watchtower is not the classic pocket pulling that you expect from American Fork Canyon. It's more technical in nature with edges, crimpers, sidepulls and a few jugs thrown in for good measure.

Fun area with good climbing and little traffic.

This is a great area for fall climbing in American Fork.

See an oblique, aerial view here.


Getting There 

The Watchtower is located 3.4 miles up the canyon. Park and walk 150 yards directly up the hill to the north from the parking area.

Alternatively, instead of heading up the talus slope, there is a small trail just to the east of the large rock formation (known as The Hitcher) just off the road. Head up that trail and take the left hand trail when it splits. You'll have to climb up the last 20 yards of the talus slope.

The first route (Billy Goat's Gruff - .11a) starts at the top of the talus slope and the routes continue to the left.


Climbing Season


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Watchtower:
Billy Goat's Gruff   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sun King   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Fire Woman   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wasted and Wounded   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Step Right Up   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in The Watchtower

Featured Route For The Watchtower
On  <em>Step Right Up</em>, Aaron Child eyeing the crux.

Step Right Up 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Watchtower
Start pulling on a right facing flake (don't cheat by going right—use the flake) then clip the 2nd bolt with nice holds. Next, find your way to the only pocket on the climb—3rd bolt.You get a huge rest at bolt 4, then come two beautiful pinchers at the small overhang - clip - then find the sidepull to a sloper to a crimper, reach for a nice right hold using the undercling after that you have easy climbing to the chains.This climb has it all. It's solid 12a and sim...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for The Watchtower
Comments on The Watchtower Add Comment
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 5, 2014

In spring (May), goes into the sun around noon. Back in the shade around 5PM.