The Wasteland 

Whats the lowdown on all the new bolted lines around the wasteland route??? Also this crag should be called "Squid Dome" as the cliff looks much like the mollusk when viewed from the drainage...

Sept 11 2010 I reached the top of pitch 1 about 9am, full sun and already warm on the rock. After setting 3 pieces in the crack on the left side of the ledge I had just started to tie the anchor figure 8 when yellow jackets began emerging from a hole holding my top piece, a nice #10 stopper. Long story..I managed to kill 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner climbed up to a tree a little higher up and belayed me up. They followed us up to the tree, we bailed and they followed us down. Planning on returning next month, great looking route!

Looking up at Wasteland 9/11/10 Submitted By: Scott Sellers on Sep 16, 2010

Thanks for the heads up and glad to hear you both made it down safe. Bummer to hear they moved into that belay spot. In hindsight, how well do you think it may have worked to belay from around the corner on the way up to 2nd anchor ledge?

First time on the route for us, I did look to continue but had to consider I was out about 160ft on a 60m and the last 50ft or so had been runnout. I had heard from other climbing partners that there was some "interesting" moves at the start of the second. I quickly looked that way and only saw small gravely ledges with slim hands and no visiable pro in site. Added asking my second to cross paths with yellow jackets, fight/ no chance for flight mode kicked in. Gotta say it's a great looking route, can't wait to try again.

Went up to climb The Wasteland and ended up climbing the bolted line up the left from the "Chimney" section. Any ideas out there on a name and grade? Super fun and I mean Super!!!! Great face climbing, airy, and warm.

DaveF, I think the first bolted line to the right of the start of Wasteland is called Teenage Wasteland. I think its supposed to be 10a, but not really sure.

Thanks for the beta. We ended up heading straight up the face after the chimney pitch of Wasteland. I saw the bolts and figured it may be fun. It ended up being a really good time. I loved the exposure.

A topo being developed for this dome can be found at this address:

www.geir.com/wasteland%20se.pdf


For those who use Google Earth, a .kmz file showing the approach can be found at this address:

www.geir.com/googleearth/stronghold/east/

enjoy!

Nice job Geir. Angel and I took some clippers up a couple months back and trimmed back quite a bit of agave points and other thorn - laden things that had taken over the path. It still could use tidying up in a few spots though.

i was also wondering about the bolted route left of the wasteland, the bolts looked great and it seemed 5.9ish on the 1.5 pitches of it i did

That climb is called "the fire sermon."